A blouse is a true female model of clothing, which should be one of the important parts in the wardrobe of a modern stylish woman. Due to its versatility, it fits to different fashion trends and is combined with many styles. Many models - classic, with basky, bat-style with deflated sleeves, with a swing collar and many others - will allow each girl to choose the right model and sew it with her own hands, based on their capabilities and desires.
Basic sleeveless blouse pattern: step by step instructions
Knowledge of the method of constructing the main pattern for cutting fabric on a blouse will open the way for sewing more complex models with sleeves and various additional decorative elements. Before starting the construction of the pattern, you need to measure the following parameters (the numbers are indicated for example and clarity in the step-by-step construction of the drawing):
- Back (length to waistline, cm) - 40.
- Shoulder (length, cm) - 15.
- Neck (semicircle (neck), cm) - 20.
- Area above the chest (semicircle (PO over the breast), cm) - 46.
- Chest (semicircle (chest), cm) –50.
- Hips (semicircle (Hip), cm) –52.
Using your parameters, rather than the average values for a certain size of clothing, you can be sure that the blouse will sit exactly on the figure.
Preparatory stage - the grid
Draw a rectangle MNPK (for convenience, mark the letters from the upper left corner in a clockwise direction) with the following sides:
- The sides of MN and KP are equal to the sum ON the chest and 5 cm, regardless of size. For example, with the parameters specified in the parameters of 50 cm, the length of the sides will be 55 cm. This is the width of the future blouse.
- The sides of the MK and NP are the sum of the length of the back to the waist and 18 cm, regardless of size. For example, with the specified in the parameters of 40 cm, the length of the sides will be 58 cm.
- Determine the depth of the armhole - it will be the sum of one third of the chest software parameter and 4 cm. Thus, with the above figure, the armhole size will be 21 cm. To build it, measure the calculated distance from the end of M along the segment MK and name the resulting point G. draw a parallel MN segment to the point of intersection with the NP side and designate, for example, G1.
- Determine the level of the waist. To do this, measure the length of the back from the end of M (in the parameters for the example it is 4 cm) along the MK side and name the obtained point B. From it, draw a parallel MN segment to the intersection point with the NP side and designate, for convenience, B1.
Building patterns back blouses
- Measure from the G point to the right a segment equal to the sum of one third breast semicircle and 3 cm. In this case, the segment will be equal to 20 cm. Denote the end of the segment with a point G2, from which then draw a straight up parallel to the MK side to intersect with the upper base MN, name the place the intersection of the letter O. This is the width of the back of the blouse.
- From the point G2, measure to the right a segment equal to one-fourth of the chest software — for this pattern it will be equal to 13 cm. The end of the segment is the point G3, and the segment itself shows the width of the blouse's armhole.
- From the point G1, measure up the segment parallel to the side of the MK, which is composed of one second across the chest and 0.5 cm — it is equal to 25.5 cm according to the model measurements made. The end of the segment is the point W.
- From the G3 point, measure up the same segment with a length of 25.5 cm, the end of which is the point O1, the intersection point with the segment MN to call the letter O2. Merge points O1 and W.
Thus, the rise of the shelf of the blouse is built:
- Find the middle of the segment G2-G3, designate the found place as G4. From it, lower the perpendicular to the segment KP, designate the point of intersection of the perpendicular with this segment as R, and with segment BB1 as B2. So there was the sideline of the blouse.
- Dividing the segments O-G2 and O2-G3 into 4 identical segments, we obtain additional marks for the construction of straight shoulder girdle and armhole.
- Extend the segments O-G2 and O2-G3 1 cm down, the resulting ends combine - this is the designation of the descent armhole blouses.
Marking up the neckline:
- From the point M, measure to the right a segment equal to the sum of one third of the neck semicircle and 0.5 cm. For this model, it will be equal to 6.5 cm. Measure from it upwards to 1.5 cm, and from it another 1. Combine the found point with the point M smooth bend line.
- Measure down from the point O 2 cm down - this will be the level of the slope of the shoulder of the blouse, along which the line of the shoulder bevel will be constructed.
- From a point of 1.5 cm, measured previously when constructing the neck, through point 2, indicated by marking the shoulder slope, draw a segment that is the sum of the length of the arm (so 14) and another 1 cm (taken into account for proper fit). The result was a shoulder cut.
- Measure from point 1, dividing the angle into two equal parts, 3 cm. Through point 14, in the middle of the segment O-G2, draw points 3 and G4 for the armhole.
- From point 2, measure to the left 2 cm. Through the points G4, 2 and H, draw a segment constituting the line of the side seam.
Front pattern drawing
Built as follows:
- Measure from the point W to the left a segment equal to one third of the neck software + 0.5 cm. Mark its end as W1. For example, the length is 7.5 cm.
- Measure from the end of the W down a segment equal to one third of the neck software +1.5 cm. In this case, it turned out to be a segment of 8.5 cm.
- Connect the found points W and 8.5 cm by a dotted line, find its middle and from the point W through the center of the segment hold a segment of 7.5 cm.
- Combine the points W, 7.5 and 8.5 with a smooth feature with a bend. Turned neckline neckline
- From the end of W1, measure to the left 4 cm, then another 1 cm down. Combine the ends of W1 and 1. From the point G1, measure the segment equal to the neckline + shoulder length from the neckline to the chest dart - 1 cm. According to the measurements for the sample, a segment of 11.5 cm was obtained. cut out development to the chest tuck.
- At the right segment of the tuck line (from 1 to 11.5), find the center and measure to the left a segment equal to the difference between the chest ON and the PO over the chest. The sample turned out to be 4 cm. From point 11.5 through point 4, draw a segment equal to the right line of the tuck and mark its end with point O3.
- Combine the dotted O3 and the middle of the segment O-G2 with a dotted dash. From the end of O3, measure with a dotted dash a segment equal to the difference between the length of the shoulder and 4 cm (the length of the shoulder from the notch of the excavation to the chest dart). The segment is 11 cm. Next, you need to combine its edge with the middle of the segment O2-G3 dotted line. Then from point 11 measure 2 cm down and combine with O3. This is how the length of the shoulder from the chest dash to the armhole of the blouse was designated.
- At the dotted segment, drawn from point 2 to the lower end of the internal separation of the O2-G3 segment, find the middle and measure 1 cm from it to the right. Measure from this point 2 cm, dividing the angle into two equal parts. Conduct through the points 2 and 1, the lower dividing point of the segment O2-G3, the point 0.02 and G4 segment, which will be the line of the blouse's armhole.
- From the end of B2, measure 2 cm to the right. Draw a segment through G4, 2 and R, which will be a side seam.
- From the end of B1, measure 2 cm down and connect with point 2 from the side segment - this is how the waist level formed.
- From the end of P, extend the length of NP by 2 cm and name the resulting end R1. Connect R and R1 - formed the level of the hips.
- From the end of 8.5, indicated when constructing the neck, and the points R1, measure to the right 1.5 cm each and combine the counted points. Extending it 1 cm up, combine it with a point 8.5. Add 3 cm to the clasp. The length of the waist line to the bottom take from 12 to 18 cm, depending on preferences.
Modeling blouses with Basque
Baska - a beautiful item of clothing, giving any image of femininity.Most often it is found on different models of dresses or on skirts, but it is also suitable for embedding in a blouse - it turns out at the same time modestly and elegantly.
In order to independently make a pattern of a blouse, which includes a baska with frills, a lot of effort is not required - even beginners can be able to do this. The modeling takes place on a pattern-based dress.
It is necessary to take into account several features, the main of which - the beginning of the Basque is the waist line. In this case, it will not be disadvantageous to change the visual proportions of the figure.
There are only three important moments when building the Basques:
- The first - taliyev tuck closes.
- The second - shuttlecocks should be the same in width and turned in the direction of the location of the side seam.
- The third - on both halves of the pattern you need to build three-dimensional seams, with relief, as they hide all parts of the dart, chest and waist.
That's all the main points that will help without any extra effort to sew a blouse with such an elegant element as the Basque with frill.
A more detailed process of modeling the pattern of a blouse with a basque can be viewed in the following video:
How to simulate the summer model of chiffon?
Chiffon is the perfect material for summer clothes. Thin soft fabric gives any image of femininity, elegance, airiness. The chiffon blouse will become an indispensable piece of clothing due to the combination of lightness of fabric and classic cut, and is suitable for both evening walks and office work.
This drawing includes several decorative elements in the classic blouse cut:
- Wide cuffs with cuffs.
- Stand collar.
- The folds are located on the neck and shoulders.
- Very wide armholes.
They gently decorate a strict silhouette and make it more suitable for girls and young women.
Drawing up the scheme step by step:
- On the pattern-based blouse tuck at the waist to remove, leave the length of the front part only up to the hips.
- From the middle of the neckline measure 12 cm down. Hold the bar 3 cm wide, cut and cut it out of four parts separately.
- Mark the shoulder line different from the primary construction. To do this, measure 2 cm from the shoulder to the right. Measure from the side of the blouse 2 cm to the left, then upwards another 7 cm, draw a smooth straight line with a bend along the piece.
- New cut line for sleeves when connecting the shoulder point and the side point of the blouse. In addition to it, you need to draw a cuff of 8 cm in width (after stitching, it will be two times smaller). Cut it off and separate it separately.
- The coquette bottom will also be double, so you need to cut it 14 cm wide, and in length it will be equal to the size of your hips.
- Pattern the back of the entire outline, excluding the neck - it must be drawn differently and additionally construct a drawing for the stand collar.
Build stand collar:
- Construct a rectangle ABCD = EFGH, the sides of which EF and GH are equal to the software of the neckline, and the sides EH and FG are 4 cm each.
- Measure from point G and point F 0.5-1 cm up. From the midpoints of the sides EF and GH, draw respectively equal straight lines for the collar.
- Thermal fabric will help to strengthen the inner side of the collar.
Stapling (steps):
- The side seams are swept up to the armholes.
- Stitch the bottom of the blouse by 4 mm, then pull to match the yoke line, arrange the folds evenly.
- Make the bottom yoke more sturdy using thin thermo fabric, fold the front parts together with the blouse, tack on it, then stitch it. Then fold the yoke double face out, iron, unscrew the open edge and make a line.
- Tack on the parts of the slats to the front halves that are compacted with the help of thermo-cloth and sew. On the slats blouses face parts to each other put the pair of parts (pre-compacted) slats and also flash.
- Screw the panels upside down, sweep them up, tuck them in a slice, tack them on again and make a line at the edge on the outer sides.
- On both halves blouses make folds.Sweep shoulder seams, then stitch.
- Sew the cuffs along the slits for the arms, fold them inside out along the finished fold line so that they round the armhole on both sides. Unscrew the remaining edge and flash it.
- Turn cuffs to shoulder seams, slightly fasten and iron.
- To process parts of a collar with thermofabric.
- Sew four loops for the collar, sweep them to the right outside.
- Sew a stand-up collar and stitch off with three lines.
- Scrape loops and sew on buttons.
Model with a smell
Blouse with a smell will look good with skirts and jeans, and is suitable for wearing in different situations. Usually such a model is sewn in a long-sleeved version, since the neckline is quite deep, and in this case it is not necessary to open additional body parts.
Cuffs on the sleeves add a discreet and neat style.
The main element of this model is the smell. It is necessarily sewn with a fastener, since it is not designed by itself to maintain the closed shape and can open at any time, which is a feature of its structure. The elongated back makes the blouse look like a shirt in a classic style, and an elastic seam at the front, which allows the fabric to hang freely.
Adding to the usual pattern a few necessary elements, you can get an extraordinary and multifunctional thing that fits any element of the female wardrobe. Detailed video on the pattern can be viewed below:
Easily and quickly cut out your hands "Carmen"
Style "Carmen" is not accidentally named the name of the Spaniard. This name refers us to Spain, namely, to her flamenco dance style, in which the upper part of the clothes was made with a neckline that opened the shoulders and was decorated with many ruffles. He turned into everyday life today.
A blouse with such a collar is sewn very easily and quickly and is suitable even for beginners, however, with all the simplicity of the cut, it looks very impressive.
Tailoring is performed as follows:
- Fold the facing of the cut and the front part to each other, chop along the line of the future cut and stitch along with the three marked sides. Cut between the lines of both parts. Turning turning inside out, ironing cuts along the edges. Then bending turn 0.75 cm, swept. Sew the front part of the cuts along the edges.
- Make seams on the sides + for the sleeves. Stitch short cuts along the frills of both sleeves.
- A line with frequent narrow zigzag sweep over the lower sections along the ruffles of the sleeves. Allow the cutout to press on the wrong side, stitch along the fold line with a small tight zigzag, cut off the excess allowance from the inside out.
- Fill the ruffles from the top cut of the sleeves to the bottom, stitch to the bottom cut.
- Sew the sleeves in the armhole. Allow seams to sweep and iron.
- Cover with a thick narrow zigzag cut of the neck. Allow it to be ironed inside out, on the front side to lay a small dense zigzag line, cut off the excess allowance from the inside.
- Iron the allowances on the strip for the drawstring inside out, for short and longitudinal cuts. Pin a strip from the inside, aligning all edges, stitch according to the marking.
To pull out the strings to 0.5 cm and put them in the drawstring.
- Turn up the hem allowance and sew 1.5 cm from the edge.
Patterns blouses with a flat sleeve and bat
Bat-style things, with free deflated sleeves, sit freely and do not restrain movements. Such models, due to the soft curves of the fabric, make the image more feminine and tender. They place special emphasis on the hands of girls. The free cut is suitable for any type of figure, it will be appreciated by both thin and larger women.
Sewing such a model is also not difficult, but simplicity does not mean lack of style here, rather, on the contrary, style is in simplicity.
Sewing items:
- Knitwear fabric 1.5 m wide and a length including the length of the front and back of the blouse, and on the hem, belt, and also on the cuffs another 40 cm.
- The cuffs are sewn from rectangles with sides of 14 cm and the length of the girth of the wrist + 6 cm for seam allowance.
- Base pattern
The belt is sewn with a length depending on the volume of the hips - up to 100 cm - this is 1.5 m, for 100 cm or a little more - it is 1.7 m. Its height is also 14 cm, like the cuffs. You must add to the pattern allowance and hem.
When choosing fabrics for sewing, you should think about the season for which a particular model is made.
In the summer, models from chiffon, flax or cotton will look beautiful - they let the air through in hot weather, which allows the skin to breathe and regulate body temperature. For the fall, knitted fabric, velor or cashmere will be a more suitable option.
The sleeve can be of different lengths, usually for the summer take a shorter, and for cool weather - a longer one. Universal length - ¾, it looks most advantageous on such models, making a beautiful emphasis on the hands.
Model with a collar swing: a master class for beginners
A blouse with a swing collar — draped around the chest — has long been one of the most sophisticated options for women. It favorably emphasizes the line of the neck and the decollete area, with an emphasis on the head - so you should take care, besides the blouse itself, about hairstyle and make-up.
This is a model of simple cut, but requires little attention to the drapery markup, therefore, a person who has little or no involvement in sewing can cope with it.
Fabric for sewing should be draped easily, it is best to use a soft knit fabric. A panne will give even the simplest cut blouse a festive look.
Materials:
- Fabric 1.4 m wide and about 1.3-1.5 m long (depending on the length of the blouse, sleeves and allowance);
- 3-4 spools of thread (for working seams, zigzag and overlock);
- Crayon and scissors;
- Flizelin.
Stages:
- Take a suitable basis for a blouse and transfer it to paper (you can take it as ready as it is and draw it according to individual measurements).
- Cut the dart to the waist.
- Cut the chest dart, move it away and secure. Draw the resulting diagram again on another paper.
- From the shoulder line we draw diagonal lines to the center of the front part (according to the tuck solution).
- Measure out the desired cutout and divide the resulting number in half.
- Transfer pattern to fabric. Here it is important to get a smooth shoulder line and leave seam allowances.
- Cut out all the details and sew first the details of the back (when using a typewriter, you need to treat the edges with a zigzag). First go back and facing, pre-treated flizelinom. Sew, smooth the seams, allow for ironing in the side of the facing and stitch at a distance of 1-2 mm from the edge. Next, wrap the facing to the wrong side and steam, trim the excess edges.
- Aligning the facing and the front and back, fold them inside out. On the sleeve, sweep half the distance of the shoulder line, and divide the rest of the fabric into three equal folds towards the neck. Duplicate on the other shoulder and stitch.
- Treat the joint edges of the facing in both parts with a single seam using an overlock. Patching the back of the inside out, combine the seams at the shoulders and manually fasten.
- Thread the sleeves into the holes for them.
- Process the bottom of the blouse overlock.
If it turned out that knitwear has a transverse direction, then it must be secured with a zigzag stitch so that it does not stretch all the time. Process the same seam and bottom of the sleeves. It is convenient because it stretches a little and does not burst.
Blouse is ready!
There are different models of blouses with this type of neck. There are models with short sleeves, which are more suitable for the summer. An interesting solution would be to add a drape along the side seam, and with the help of an additionally integrated drawstring, adjust its volume.
Other workshops you can see in the following videos.