Types of weaving gold chains

The chain is one of the most versatile jewelry. However, when purchasing it, difficulties may arise with the choice, since the range of goods, the variety of models is very large. To find the right thing, you need to take into account a number of points, namely: the type of weaving and lock, the method of making this jewelry - and a few more details.

Chains are very sought-after jewelery that are in demand in both men and women. There are several ways to create these jewelry. The oldest is manual work, which requires a lot of time and high qualification of the master.

The chains are woven in a machine way, which requires the use of high-precision and expensive equipment. This method allows you to make thin, almost weightless jewelry. The minimum wire thickness is only 0.15 mm!

However, not all types of weaving are available for industrial production, therefore the work of a jeweler in some cases remains indispensable. Handmade jewelery has a significantly greater weight and is distinguished by high durability (when the work is performed by a qualified specialist).

The cheapest method of manufacture is stamping. Elements of chains are created by forcing sheet metal, for this purpose, special cutting stamps are used. In this case, the links do not solder, they are simply assembled, which affects the strength of the finished product.

There are many types of weaving, some of them are considered masculine, others are feminine, and others are classified as “unisex.”

The complexity of manufacturing these jewelry can also be different. Some can only be done manually, others are available for industrial, machine-made production. Complicated and time-consuming work requires, for example, such a type of knitting as “rope” - twisted weaving of many small elements.

Jewelry of different types of knitting have a different weight. There are chains of massive, dense and openwork, light. The first includes including the weave "spike", the elements of which are twisted so that they form a V-shaped pattern, characteristic of the ears.

There are three main types of weaving: anchor, armored and "Bismarck." They differ in the type of elements and the nature of their location relative to each other.

The main features of different types of tying chains:

• When anchor type of weaving adjacent links are perpendicular to each other. When anchor weaving classic they are the same and have an oblong shape. However, there are a number of types of weaving of this type, in which the shape of the links may be different. The location of adjacent links at right angles to each other, even with a small thickness, visually gives the chain bulkiness with a relatively small weight.

• No less popular is the weaving of the Bismarck type (it is also the “Kaiser”), which also has a lot of varieties and variations.The chain is formed by links of a spiral shape, which are enclosed in one another, resulting in a fancy and beautiful pattern. Links for this type of connection are made of wire twisted into a spiral; the ends of the elements are sealed after the links are connected to each other.

• Carapace weaving involves the location of links on the same plane, as on the chain mail.

The most universal type of weaving is anchor. It is well combined with pendant ornaments of different types, it is enough just to take care that the weight of the pendant or cross corresponds to the thickness of the chain.

Subspecies of anchor weaving:

• “Sea chain” if there is a reinforcing web in the links;
• Double, if the links are double;
• “Double Roll”, or “Garibaldi” (in honor of the couple Garibaldi), if double round links join;

• "Venetian" if the shape of the links is square / rectangular;

• 1 + 1, if in the chain all links have the same strongly elongated shape;
• 1 + 2, if alternating: one standard link - two elements of strongly elongated shape;

• "Moscow bit". In addition to the standard, oblong, contains additional links of a curved shape, which give the chain extra density. Suitable for men's jewelry;

• “Rollo”, or French weaving, it’s also “Belzer”, or “Chopard” (from the name of the jewelry house Chopard, which used this version of the chains in its works), if the links of the chain are perfectly round. "Shopard" is also a very versatile type of anchor weaving. In some cases, massive chains are an independent aesthetic detail, in others they can be combined with men's jewelry, and thin, with small links, are ideal for a female pendant / pendant;

• Cord, when each link is connected not only with the two closest, but also with a large number of links, forming a wavy or stepped pattern of the chain;

• "Aurora". It is considered a fantasy subspecies of anchor weaving;
• Gavayka. Other fantasy weaving.

This type of mating has many varieties. Among the most famous are:

• Double Bismarck;
• Triple Bismarck;
• "Python" (or "Pharaoh", "Italian", "American", "whim"). This option is perfect for both women and men;

• Moscow (classic) Bismarck;

• "Brook";

• Arab Bismarck. A more airy and openwork version compared to the classic;

• "Glamor". Links are decorated with small metal balls on two sides;

• "The Rose". Each link is a spiral welded so that this element resembles a flower;

• “Fox tail” (“Byzantium”, “royal weaving”). This subtype has several varieties: circle, semicircle, square, assembled "fox tail";

• Abinata.

Weaving "Bismarck" is considered suitable mainly for men's jewelry, although some of its subspecies, such as "rose" or "glamor", belong to the category "for women." There are also varieties of the universal plan: these are “trickle”, “python”, “Arabic”.

There are different subspecies of armor-made knitting, including:

• "Love". The links are heart-shaped;
• Figaro (Cartier). In a certain order connect the elements of different shapes. The most common connection is 3 + 1 (three round and one oblong), but other options are possible (1 plus 1; 2 plus 1, etc.);
• "Rhombus". Elements of a diamond-shaped form are connected. A “diamond” can be single, double or triple. A very elegant variety of curb weaving;

• "Snail" ("clip"). Elements of a chain with a curl in the center and resemble a paper clip;
• "Singapore". The decoration is twisted in a spiral due to the links that are slightly curved, so it glitters and shimmers;

• "Nonna" ("nona"). The name comes from the Italian language, is an abbreviation of the phrase "grandmother's weaving."The chain consists of large and small links, the second placed in the first;

• "Cobra". Weaving two-tier, strong and durable, can be made of gold of the same color, and in the two-color version, with alternation of elements from different types of alloys. Such a chain can be worn over clothing;

• "Serpentine". Decoration elements create a wavy pattern, located in one plane.

Popular weaves include:

Elements in the form of a ball and cylinder are connected with the help of a thread. A chain can consist only of “ball” elements or of two types of elements; it can have several rows, that is, be double or triple. The method of making such a decoration is hardly difficult to weave. The jewelry is more like beads than a chain. It looks very impressive, but it requires a very careful attitude, because it is easily deformed, for the same reason it does not wear with suspensions.

Such decorations can be of different types of section (circle, square), the chain is hollow and looks like a snake. Flat "snake" is called "Cleopatra."

It is an interlacing of several tapes of an armored type of knitting. The jewelry is voluminous, impressive in its brilliance and acts as an independent piece of necklace type, not requiring additions in the form of any pendants. Ribbons of such jewelry can be made of gold of different colors.

There are also unusual combined weaving, when different types of mating are combined in one ornament, for example, “fox tail” and anchor. Elements of different types can be made of different gold alloys.

Links of chains can be connected with various decorative inserts, for example, jewelry of the Bismarck type can be decorated with precious stones. Links are non-standard forms and unusual design, for example, in the shape of the letter “A” (weaving “admiral”) or in the form of a figure eight, the variety of options is very large.

The most durable types of weaving are considered "Bismarck" and armor-clad in the varieties of "rhomb" and "Nonna." The service life of high-quality jewelry, made in the technique of "Bismarck", is very long (tens of years). In addition, such chains can be repaired, if necessary.

The strength of the chain depends not only on the type of binding, but also on the type of alloy from which it is made. The ideal option for the gold chain, for example, is considered to be the gold of 585-th sample.

Depending on the type of wire distinguish between solid chains and hollow. Hollow bodies are lighter in weight and much less durable, however, they look no less impressive than solid ones, at a relatively low cost. They require a very careful attitude.

The following types of locks are used for jewelry chains:

Ring with a latch on a spring. It is mounted on light enough jewelry, weighing up to 5 g. In case of a breakdown, it is not repairable.

Mounted on jewelry weighing 5 g, also has a spring. A reliable lock, in case its size corresponds to the weight of the product. In case of breakage is subject to repair. May be in the form of an oval or a drop.

Very reliable lock, especially if it is equipped with additional fastening loops. It is mounted on heavy jewelery weighing from 20 g. It consists of two parts: a box with a hole and an element entering it, which is fixed inside.

It is quite rare. It has a folding lid, due to the hinge it folds in half and is fixed. Easy to use, but requires care: it is necessary to control whether the lock is closed to the end.

It is considered relatively reliable, but not very convenient: to quickly close it requires some skill, otherwise it will take some time.

It consists of a T-shaped element and a ring into which it is inserted. Reliable lock and easy to manufacture. Easy to fasten.

Clinging to a special loop. Used on chains with heavy pendants, otherwise it may be unreliable.

When choosing, one should pay attention not only to the type of weaving and the type of lock, but also to the length of the decoration. A universal option for women is the length of the chain of 40-50 cm. The length of 50-60 cm is selected if you want to visually lengthen the neck.

Short chains (up to 40 cm) are suitable only for women with a long neck. Such chains should not be chosen for women of mature age; a medium-length decoration, supplemented with a pendant or pendant, is more suitable for them.

It should be borne in mind that the bottom edge of the chain should not be covered with clothes, you need to pick up a dress or blouse with a cut corresponding to the length of the decoration, or take into account when buying, with what wardrobe you plan to combine it.

If you are going to combine a chain with a pendant or pendant, choose the jewelry designed for this purpose. Not all types of weaving allow such use. There are chains designed for pendants, as well as decorative and versatile.

Very long chains, especially with large pendants, visually slim the figure, but it is better to choose them tall or medium height for girls, not tall should refrain from such jewelry, so as not to visually shorten the growth.

It is better if the bracelet will match the chain according to the type of weaving and the color of the metal. If the decorations do not make up one set, then they should have a similar color and approximately the same thickness, match in density or openwork, and harmonize in style.

A ready-made set of pendants and earrings, a bracelet and a chain is the simplest, but completely optional option. You can match each other's decorations that are not bought in pairs, combine several types of chains with different pendants in one image, the main thing is to combine them correctly, taking into account the length, color, texture, seeking harmony. Multi-layered and multi-row jewelry is now in trend.

The thickness of the chain should correspond to the weight and size of the pendant or pendant. It is believed that the weight of the chain should be twice the weight of the pendant decoration. A massive pendant can break a thin chain, and a small or openwork decoration will look inharmoniously on the bulk.

The more intricate the suspension, the simpler the chain weaving should be. The metal color of both jewels should match. Choosing a chain of a certain length and combining it with a pendant, you can place the necessary accents in your image, emphasize the necessary details, since a large pendant or a volume chain always attract attention.