All about the valley of ghosts in the Crimea

The Valley of Ghosts is a unique natural monument, spread out at the foot of the Demerdzhi mountain range. In the evenings, the mountain slopes of the reserve cover a truly fabulous view of the light: the sun's rays solemnly adorn the rocks with bright orange highlights, and then, when the star hides behind the horizon, reddish hues appear and, finally, the entire upper part of the mountain is covered with bright purple tones.

Rocky ghosts-idols, scattered in the multitude on mountain slopes, give this picture a mystical entourage. Hundreds of sculptures of unusual forms, similar to people and animals, as if come to life and, moving in the fluctuating air, create a living fairy-tale picture. Stone towers, pillars, bastions and pyramids cast off their trembling shadows, moving as the light moves along the sky.

Organically complement this pictorial picture miraculously entrenched on the harsh rocks of twisted trees, similar to the Japanese bonsai. Fascinating phantasmagoria!

The valley of ghosts is the most picturesque and mysterious territory in the Crimea, famous for its rich clusters of rock remnants of the most bizarre forms on the southern ridge of the Demerdzhi massif near Alushta. A rare place where the phenomenon of the famous Brokensky (mountain) ghost is sometimes observed - a significant or small shadow surrounded by multicolored rings (“gloria”).

Often, due to the movement of cloud layers and changes in their density, the ghost moves mystically and comes to life. Bright colored rings around the mysterious shadow appear due to the reflection of sunlight from the clouds and are due to its diffraction. A significant increase in the size of the shadow is a well-known optical illusion.

This phenomenon can be observed in conditions of saturated mountain fog or clouds, sometimes even from an airplane. The phenomenon gained its fame thanks to Johann Zilberschlag, who observed him in 1780 at Brocken Peak, in the Harz Mountains (Germany). Since 1981, a federal natural-geological monument-museum with an area of ​​20 hectares has been organized in the valley.

Demerdzhi (“Smithy Mountain”), at the foot of which lies a valley, includes two main peaks, called the South (1239 m) and North (1356 m). In ancient times, the mountain was called Funa ("steaming"). On its western part there is a fortress of the same name, built in the Middle Ages, next to which lies the tourist route to the valley, striking the imagination of tourists with its fantastic landscape.

The specificity of Demerdzhi lies in the fact that it consists not only of limestone, but also has a variety of pebble and other inclusions of more durable rocks, caught by limestone, like cement. Water seeping from the surface into the rock depth and reacting with the carbon dioxide contained in the soil becomes an acidic environment that eats away the rock. Under the influence of such water and weathering, the limestone collapses, leaving odd shapes of the most hard rocks in the form of fingers, mushrooms, lids, etc.

Unusual rock sculptures in the form of human figures, the outlines of fantastic animals and other strange creatures, skillfully created by nature, amaze with their scope and magnificence, give scope to unusual fantasies. Moreover, depending on the time of day and the peculiarities of the lighting, the mysterious images seem to come to life, begin to move and change, causing marvelous associations among the amazed observers.So, even from the Simferopol-Alushta highway, the natural “sculpture” resembling the majestic profile of Catherine II clearly differs.

This kind of natural theater, like a kaleidoscope of “ghosts,” is constantly changing, living, moving, due to unstable weather conditions in the valley. The second version of such an intense "life" of the valley says that tourists who decide to stay overnight will experience hallucinations in the mornings. Indeed, in scientific circles it is argued that a number of representatives of the richest local flora in the early morning hours emit substances capable of causing hallucinations.

Here, various forms of natural weathering reliefs, such as niches, cornices, mushrooms, pillars, bastion and other contours, are abundantly represented. There are hundreds of petrified ghosts in the valley. Most of the pillars of the valley are similar to the huge fossil belemnites called “damn fingers”. The amazing rock forms of the Valley are the result of the influence on the rocks of constant natural impacts, and sometimes even earthquakes.

In volume, this blocky chaos is more than 4 million m³. Pebbles and boulders of local natural conglomerates are of considerable interest to scientists, since the age of these oldest rocks reaches 1.1 billion years.

By the way, one of the most significant earthquakes happened here in 1894. The fallen off huge stone block, having scattered on 25-meter pieces, covered houses of the village. Fortunately, few people died, but the village was immediately moved to another place. So the village of Radiant appeared (from where the main path to the Valley of ghosts originates). Rocky chaos settled on the site of the former settlement.

If you want not only to visit this theater of nature, give yourself the whole excursion day, and you will see how the valley lives and changes. This metamorphosis is not a legend, but one of the reasons why the valley got its name. The local flora of more than 430 species is also extremely interesting. Among them are the rarest of specimens: a deadly Crimean, a yew berry, a sainfoin, a pyracanthus and many others.

Following to the Valley of ghosts from various districts of Crimea, the idea of ​​stopping in the village of Radiant will, perhaps, be successful. First, you can devote a whole day to an informative excursion; second, take a break from the long road. There are no hotels in this place, but it is quite possible to settle in for the night by renting accommodation in one of the houses. This service is popular here, and from the territory of some buildings there is an excellent panorama of the mountain itself.

Radiant has a "Demerdzhi House" (guest house), located on the edge of the village. For housing, quite decent rooms are arranged in separate cottages, equipped with all necessary household equipment for living. There is heating, and some rooms have a kitchenette with a fridge and microwave. "Mountain Antavia" - a small hotel complex with simple rooms and everything you need to relax in them. The complex has a collective kitchen, terraces, balconies and an elegant garden.

For visitors, a free fitness room is equipped and operates, and for children there is a playground. For traveling through the Valley and the rocky paths of the mountain, simple sneakers are fine. But if hiking mountain walks are an infrequent event in your life, you can use trekking shoes that will save your feet from injury. Headwear and tourist clothes will be useful.

The tract Demerdzhi (from Turkic - "blacksmith"). In this regard, there is a hypothesis that the mountain conceals some reserves of iron ore deposits, which form the basis of the mountain body.It is for this reason that forges were arranged along the trade routes that ran from Alushta.

The Greeks, who settled here in antiquity, adhering to a different point of view, called Mount Fun - “smoking”. The name was promoted by a special natural phenomenon: wetted, airy sea masses, towering above the mountain, cooled down and then lowered by dense foggy masses on the mountain slopes, creating the impression of some smoke.

Compassionate Maria - the daughter of a rural head - came to the master in order to convince him to spare the people. But the blacksmith killed the girl. Such an act of the forge owner shook nature, and the mountain began to erupt, absorbing the subsoil, and with them the forge. The apprentices turned into petrified figures, and at the top of Demerdzhi a cruel blacksmith stiffened. So they preserved the centuries of two images - the rock "Giant" (25 m high, 5 m in diameter) and "The head of Catherine".

According to other custodians of ancient local legends, the name of the fossil "Head of Catherine", clearly visible at the top of the southern part of the mountain, was appropriated by Prince Taurian (Potemkin). Upon completion of the Russian-Turkish battle on the way home, driving around a mountain range, the prince saw this natural sculpture. Struck by the external resemblance of the outlines of the rock with the face of the Empress, and, apparently, under the impression of accomplished glorious victories, the Most Glorious gave the rock the name of Catherine II. How credible is this tradition is now difficult to establish, but the mountain still styled "Yekaterinburg Mountain" or gently - "Katyusha".

Nowadays, this natural sculpture reminds a little the profile of the glorified ruler of Russia. The reason for this was the powerful tremors of 1927, which partially destroyed the rock. From afar, in the contours of the “Head of Catherine”, human features are completely discernible, but from close range it resembles a sphinx. Curious events link the Valley of Ghosts with the filming of the comedy film "The Caucasian Captive", since some episodes of this film were shot here, in the Crimea. There are at least three famous places in the excursion programs.

• Boulderstone, on which Natalia Varley sang a song about polar bears.
• An ancient walnut tree, now called “Nikulin's Nut”, growing right along the path that runs to the valley. The tree is about 6 centuries old. It was on his branches that the character of Nikulin “Balbes” was hiding and throwing nuts at Shurik. It is clear that in order to capture the episode with a fall, a tree branch was prepared in advance, but it accidentally broke in another place and, falling, the famous artist broke his arm.
• In the course of the movement, the trail passes into the observation deck, which is near the top of the mountain. It offers wonderful views that can be seen with close examination in the legendary comedy film by Gaidai.

On the eastern slope of the mountain winds a path to the fortification of the XIV century, called Funa. Rebuilt in Byzantine times, the fortress guarded the trade route passing through the southern coast of the peninsula. It is implied that it was along the trajectory of this eastern trail that the famous Silk Road lay, at the intersections of which robbers thirsting for money ruled. A typical excursion route on the mountain rarely contains a visit to Funa, usually it is limited to the southern part of the mountain and climbing to the “Katyusha”.

When the majestic and mysterious Chatyr-Dag is covered with a tempting misty curtain, and the southern slope of the legendary Forge, on the contrary, turns blue, a huge shadow can be seen on the clouded original canvas - the Broken Ghost roams the Crimea.

Not far from the natural boundary, he scattered his wonderful stones “Big Chaos”, created by a series of powerful avalanches (1894, 1968, 1982). Huge, with a three-story house, rock formations formed in chaotic, bizarre clusters. It is noteworthy that the age of reddish, oval-shaped stones and pebbles in these formations is more than one billion years.

And, finally, about the local flora. The valley is truly a haven for scientists. The local plant world has more than 430 species, many of them are endemic, growing only on the Crimean land. Meadow, steppe and mountain plants combined with picturesque forest islets predominate in the tract. Wonderful colors in local landscapes make plants that look very similar to Japanese bonsai.

The twisted trees, with their knobby roots, most miraculously clinging to the rocks, leave an inimitable and romantic impression of the dancing forest. Among the beech and hornbeam species growing here one can see red-stem pines with shortened dark green needles.

You can get to the place from Alushta, and directly from Yalta or Simferopol. The final stop will be the village of Radiant. You can book a tour, and you can go on your own - the route is relatively easy, quite a person with an average level of training. However, with a knowledgeable guide, such a trip will become more informative and safe. There are three ways to get to the reserve.

• On a personal car (not necessarily in jeeps - the road is good), using a navigator aimed at the Radiant. Upon arrival in the village, having parked the transport near the equestrian club, we continue on foot. It will be useful to study the price list for renting a car - the Crimean price list starts with two thousand rubles. Car issue at the airport. From Alushta to the final point to go 15 km, from Simferopol and Yalta - 40 and 50 km.
• Sightseeing from Alushta. Such excursions are sold almost anywhere in the Crimea, however, the Alushta service will be more diverse in this sense. The route is very convenient - “Mysteries of the Valley of Ghosts”, a tour of up to 6 hours. Although on-site you can find more economical options in groups.
• Urban transport. To Radiant from Alushta trolleybus depot by bus number 107. Trolleybus №51 - from Simferopol, and from Yalta - №52. From the village you will need to walk on asphalt (the object is about 40 minutes walk) towards the western part of the South Mountain. At its foot climb the path up the hill. Trees and rocks along the path are specially marked with signs.

How to get to the valley of ghosts in the Crimea, see the following video.