Surb Khach Monastery in Crimea: features and location

Of particular interest to travelers is the Old Crimea, which encompassed the foot of the Monastic Mountains. At the very top of this picturesque wooded area you can see the outlines of the Apostolic Church. It is here that is located Surb Khach - The oldest active Armenian monastery.

In the XIII century, with the consent of the Horde khans, a large number of Armenians moved to Tavrida from the town of Ani, destroyed by a strong earthquake. They found their refuge in the town of Crimea. Legend has it that the spiritual leader of the Armenians, Hovhannes Sebastatsi, saw in the sky a huge fiery cross, which he considered to be a good omen and decided to build a large monastery in this place. Hence its name - Surb Khach, which means "holy cross".

Together with his brother Hovhannes Sebastatsi, he bought a plot of 50 hectares from the Genoese and in 1358 began to build a monastery, and on its roof it was decided to plant the main relic of the Armenian people - a cross from the temple of Ani.

Among historians there is an opinion that This monastery became a kind of symbol of resistance against the conversion of Armenians to Catholicism.. So the history of the Armenian Church of the Holy Cross began, for dozens and even hundreds of years it was associated with destruction - as a result of attacks from the Genoese, Tatars and Turks, the building was constantly destroyed and rebuilt, the fraternal corps was rebuilt many times and new cells appeared.

Throughout its history, the monastery of Surb Khach was inactive only twice. The first time happened when Armenians were sent from the Crimea to Zadon steppes. The second case occurred during the Soviet era, when in 1925 a tuberculosis dispensary was founded on the site of the monastery, and a year later a pioneer camp for schoolchildren.

During World War II, the monastery was completely abandoned and began to gradually deteriorate and collapse. This continued until the 70s of the last century. At that time, archaeological excavations began on the territory of the complex and the building was partially restored, and a sanatorium was set up in the former cell room.

Spiritual life returned to Surb Khach only in the early 90s of the last century.when a cross was set up over the temple, and services began. In 2002, the monastery was officially handed over to the Armenian Orthodox Church, but it was opened only in 2008, when they conducted electricity, set up access roads and appointed the head. Shortly before this, crosses with the encrypted inscription “Surb Khach” were brought from Armenia, they were installed near the doors of the temple. Today, the monastery is active.

Surb Khach for Orthodox Armenians is a man’s abode, women are strictly forbidden to enter here. Only the ruins of the old building are open for visiting - the fraternal corps, the refectory room and the courtyard. In ancient times, this monastery was quite famous, it housed its own school, the most famous sacred books and spiritual monuments were copied on the territory of the monastery. Even the attack of the Turkish troops in 1475 did not suspend the enlightenment and moral life in the monastery of Surb Khach.

Up to the XVIII century, the monastery remained the main center of pilgrimage for Armenian believers in the entire Crimea, as well as the Northern Black Sea region.It is known that the ministers initially lived in one common private cell, but as the number of novices increased, the number of interior dwellings also increased. The rooms themselves were small - 2x2 meters, with a fireplace in each room.

Now it’s hard to imagine how you can live in such a limited space, but do not forget that in the cells, the monks only slept and recited prayers, and this does not need much space at all.

In a separate tower, the abbot's room was arranged, which held liturgy every Sunday. He remained in his cell in complete solitude from Monday to Saturday and prepared for the divine service, after which he descended a small staircase and went directly to the altar.

The gates to the temple are decorated with majestic crosses, near which tombstones can be seen - these are the ancient graves of the first novices and the founder of Surb Khach. According to the customs of the Armenian church to be buried near the entrance to the monastery or the temple is always considered a great honor.

Above the entrance is visible one of the ancient frescoes depicting the Virgin Mary, but she remained very poorly. According to the documents that have reached us, in former times there were a lot of murals in the monastery, but they are now in the most deplorable state, and the outlines of the faces of the saints on them are almost imperceptible.

There is no iconostasis in Armenian churches - only the icon of the Mother of God is decorated with an altar. The place itself is separated from the rest of the room by a small curtain, in this respect the Armenian religious traditions are very close to the early Christian ones. Indoors there is a font for baptism, as well as an area where you can, if you wish, place a burning candle — Armenians put candles for rest and for health in one place.

In the temple of Surb Khach is stored a famous icon, called "Flashing Jesus." Throughout the world, there are only 3 sketches from the original, and the original itself is nothing but the shroud with which Jesus was covered immediately after his death, and on which the imprint of his face was preserved. One such canvas is stored in Surb Khach, the second in Georgia, and the third in the Vatican.

The icon is made so that when you look at it from any position, Jesus either looks at the person, then his eyelids are closed, then filled with blood and tears. This image makes a truly indelible impression on everyone who sees it.

The monastery garden, without any doubt, is one of the main attractions of the monastery. Of course, its beauty faded for several centuries - in the previous centuries it was famous for its trees, there were several beautiful fountains here, but only two have survived to our times. The fountains look like rectangular structures, lined with stone, on the surface of which the carved patterns are clearly visible. The garden is located on several terraces, stairs lead to them, which are now in a dilapidated state.

Near the monastery in the middle of summer celebrate Vardavar is the Armenian equivalent of the day of Ivan Kupala, and on holidays there are exhibitions of works of Armenian folk crafts and concerts of folk groups. Here tourists gather from all near abroad, while anyone can attend events, regardless of gender, nationality or religious belief.

On the territory of the manor of the monastery there are strict rules of conduct:

• it is allowed to park the car only on separate sites designated for this purpose, travel to the protected area is prohibited for all types of vehicles, in addition to official vehicles;
• tents can be pitched only by prior agreement with the abbot and in strictly established zones;
• to include non-religious music is strictly prohibited;
• cutting of trees, grazing of farm animals and birds, grass mowing, gathering of fruits and plants in the garden is not allowed;
• walks with dogs are possible exclusively in muzzles and on a leash;
• the territory of the temple itself can be entered only accompanied by the servants of the monastery;
• visitors must have appropriate attire.

At present, construction work on the reconstruction of the monastery premises continues, therefore the entrance to the following construction sites is prohibited:

• stairways leading from the first to the second floor;
• towers and basements;
• first floor of the fraternal building.

Surb Khach is located in a rather picturesque place - it is as if lost in the foothill deciduous forest. There are no residential buildings and highways near it, the place is extremely secluded and calm. No city noises reach here, only trills of birds and church melody can be heard reaching from the temple.

The monastery is located in the Kirov district of Old Crimea, but this is only a general address. In order to find the right way, you need a big deal. The best landmark can be called the foot of the Monastery Mountains. It is located between the famous Crimean resorts - Sudak and Theodosia.

Hiking travelers usually descend at the station Old Crimea, after which they move along the route in a westerly direction. In the place where it intersects with Lenin Street, you should turn in the direction of the mountain and leave the village along the very first lane (about 700 meters). After crossing the small river Churuk-Su, you should follow the road, which raises travelers to historical and spiritual treasure of the entire Armenian people.

How to get to the monastery of Surb Khach in the Crimea, see the following video.