All about the Genoese fortress in Sudak

The Genoese fortress is a unique defensive complex, made by inventive Genoese in the romantic style of the Middle Ages. As a stronghold for the colonies of the northern Black Sea coast, the fortress covered the entrance to Sudak Bay. “The most picturesque historical ruins” - this is how the famous writer-historian MP Pogodin defined this area. Nevertheless, today the definition of "ruins" will not be entirely fair.

Today, Sudak Fortress is a world famous museum. Of the unique structures of the 10th – 15th centuries, its walls have preserved and partially reconstructed: the mighty fortress walls, the Dozorny (Maiden) and Portovaya towers, the Consular castle, a number of famous religious buildings, the surviving elements of residential buildings and the fortifications of the 6th century.

The fortress city for a long and busy life at different times bore various names - Sudak, Sugdeya, Soldadiya, Surozh. The history remembers when the Black Sea was called Surozhsky, and where epic Surozh soldiers fought desperately and courageously. Sudak was conquered by the Khazars and Alans, Polovtsy and Greeks, Russians and Tatars, Italians and Turks.

It was from Surozh that famous Surozh wines were delivered throughout Europe. Here he built his trading post uncle of the famous navigator Marco Polo. Many historical secrets keep the harsh coastal cliffs of the famous Cape. The geography of Sudak is so beneficial and unique that in the XVIII century, when Crimea became the patrimony of Russia, it was here that they planned to transfer the capital of Tavria.

Genoese (Sudak) fortress - defensive complex, built in the VII century AD. er on a height of 157 m, which is a solidified coral reef with a smooth slope from the north and sharply steep from the south. Impregnable from the east and south, steep from the west and vulnerable only from the north, the mountain was an ideal place for the construction of a fortified area covering the bay.

Thus, the favorable location of the territory, competent design and the creation of fortifications made the fortified area almost impregnable:

• from the west - difficult to access;
• from the south and east protected by steep mountain formations, rolling down to the coast;
• from the northeast - covered with a special moat.

The fortress is located near Sudak within a pleasant walk. Strictly speaking, it is not entirely logical to attribute it exclusively to Genoese times. Long before this, the fortified city of Sugdei, which belonged to Byzantium, was located here.

Many fortified regions of the region belong to the Byzantine period of government. In the Genoese times, many fortifications were built in the Crimea, for example, Kafa, Chembalo, Vosporo, Yalita (Yalta) and others. All this is now known cities and favorite places of rest. Any of them may well be called Genoese. Exactly because of this reason it would be more correct to call the fortress of Sudak (according to its location).

There are other names of the fortress - Sugdeya (in Greek), Soldaya (European), Sugdak (Persian). In accordance with the main hypothesis, the Sugdey settlement was built in 212 AD. er According to one of the existing versions, the Alans were its indigenous inhabitants. This is evidenced by the records of the monks in the annals of the Sinaksar Sugdei.

In the 6th century, Byzantium owned the region. In the VIII century - the Khazars, and in X - Sugdeya again passed to the Byzantines. Since the end of the XI century, the territory was under the protectorate of the Polovtsy. XIII century - Sugdey conquered by the Golden Horde.In the period of troubled times in the Horde in 1365, the Genoese conquer it.

In those days, by agreement with the Mongol khanate, Genoa already owned trading posts at the Cafe. Thus began the Genoese page in the history of the fortress, but not for long. In 1475, the warlike Turks conquered several fortresses in the seaside at once, and then the principality of Theodoro itself. In 1771, the Russian troops conquered the fortress, where the cavalrymen of the Kirillov regiment are stationed.

Today, due to the huge amount of restoration work carried out, the Genoese fortress is rather a complete monument of architecture, rather than just historical ruins. Nevertheless, it was not possible to restore all the ancient fortification.

The main fortifications include the Consular Castle and 14 tower structures up to 15 meters high. The total area of ​​the fortified area is approximately 30 hectares. Limestone walls are made in 2 tiers (2 belts of defense). The height of the walls of the first line reaches 8 meters, thickness - up to 2 meters. Residential and religious buildings were located on the terraces between the walls. The terraces sectorally shared the streets that climbed up to the castle of the consuls. The artisans were prudently located behind the main wall due to their likely ignition.

The first defense belt of the fortification consists of a castle for the consuls and the St. George, Bezymyannaya, Patrol towers. The fortress belts in the north-east and north-west included two fortified zones, between them were the gates and additional fortifications. At the edges of the entrance aperture two towers were erected: J. Torsello and Bernabo di Pagano. In a harmonious and impregnable defensive complex, all the fortifications were united by a powerful wall connecting them.

Above the main gate is a plate with the date of construction of the entire defensive structure (1389). From the northeast, the fortification is represented by three more tower structures: Lucini de Flicco Lavane, Corrado Chicalo, Pasquale Judiche. From the north-west of the fortified area, not far from the entrance gates, the tower structures are viewed: Cornerstone, Guvarco Rumbaldo, J. Marione.

The fortress became Russian property in 1783. During this period, the fortress buildings decay. Nevertheless, the restoration work carried out in the twentieth century, allowed to save individual buildings and, although partially, destroyed walls.

Consular castle as a whole saved. His closed courtyard is represented by: a quadrangular tower-donjon (the main residence of the consuls) and an angular one with dividing walls. In its economic premises (on the first tier) at one time there was a massive container of drinking water (which came, by the way, through clay conduits). The whole construction of the castle is crowned with a gear arcature belt. The side aisle of the building connects it with the St. George's Tower, which basically retains its original features.

The highest point of the fortress is the Watchtower (160 m), which was erected in the period from the 10th to the 13th century. Its second name is the Castle of St. Elias. In form, it is made in the form of a quadrangle and now functions as a viewing platform.

In the lower defense sector there is a relatively well-restored Main Gate complex, including:

• barbican;
• bridge;
• ditch;
• the towers of Bernabo di Pagano and J. Thorcelli;
• Battisto di Zoaljo - portal (dividing wall).

The Barbican is a complementary defensive structure, jutting out slightly forward and anticipating the entrance gate. In ancient times it was surrounded by a defensive moat with a bridge, which greatly hampered the attempts of the attacking enemy to penetrate inside the fortress. At night, the bridge rose, and the guards carried their watch on the towers. The garrison in the fortress was not large (several dozen warriors), but in case of danger it was largely replenished by local residents.

Before the enemy who overcame the Barbican was a massive lifting gate, where he came under intense shelling from the heights of the walls and towers. The entrance consists of two porch towers: from the west - J. Thorcelli, from the east - Barnabo di Pagano. Information on the plates laid on the towers states that the first was erected in 1385, and the second in 1414. The inscriptions reflect the names of managers-consuls, under whose rule these constructions were built.

Unique preserved buildings located on the north-western line of defense. Among them are the towers: J. Marione and Guvarco Rumbaldo. The first one was erected in 1388, and its quad-shaped form was somewhat later equipped with a superstructure — another tier, where a special passage with a parapet was placed. The second tower in 3 tiers was built in 1394. The towers are separated by a curtain.

Moving to the northeast zone, which belongs to the lower fortified line, we find the stately tower of Pasquale Judiche. This multi-layered open creation was made in 1392. The semicircular construction, which contrasts sharply against the background of the entire defensive system with its unusual forms, and complements the system - the turret of Corrado Chicalo, built in 1404, is not inferior to it in beauty.

From the port fortifications only the square of F. Astagwera’s (Portovaya) tower reached us, which decorated the complex in 1386.

Not only tower structures noteworthy Sudak fortress, but also a temple with an arcade, built by the Turks. At the end of the XVIII century, the building repeatedly changed its purpose. The mosque, cathedral, Armenian church, church - such is its richest history. Now there is a museum of archeology, with many rich and interesting exhibitions.

You can get to the city from Simferopol or Feodosia by regular bus. Conveniently, you can walk from Alushta or Feodosia by boat.

Getting to the place on your car, looking in Sudak street. Lenin and follow her to the village of New World. In the course of the movement continues the street Tourist Highway. Further we follow by the “Sugar Loaf” (left on the left), from where the Sudak fortress will be visible. Near the bus stop "Village Cozy" there is a paid parking (here come sightseeing buses), where there is always the possibility of parking.

For promotion by public transport as a guideline will serve as a stop "Village cozy". From the bus station to this landmark go route taxi number 6 and number 5 (follows to the New World).

Moving to the fortress, you will find quite a civilized tree of desires. Hanging on sale here symbolic ribbons, the tree looks very elegant. To make a wish at this particular historical place is a truly memorable event.

The construction of the fortress lasted from 1371 to 1469 - almost a century. The result of the inspired labor of the ancient masters was a powerful, long-term complex of fortifications, in compliance with all the rules of European fortification. Each of the 14 towers erected by the builders was named in honor of the consuls who ruled Sugdeya during the construction of the corresponding object. Proof of this are the embedded plates of the towers, on which inscriptions and heraldry are stamped.

Quite often, various historical reconstructions, festival performances and exhibitions are carried out in the fortress, but the main thing is a large-scale reconstruction of the knightly battles “Genoese Helmet”. A souvenir fair has been functioning throughout the season, and a picturesque pirate, a kind of Jack Sparrow with a dead man's chest, is “outraged” at the Barbican. Announcements of events can be seen on the site "Sudak Fortress".

August is the best time to explore the fortress. It was in August that the “Genoese Helmet” knightly performance was held. Having participated in the reconstruction of scenes from the life of medieval knights, townspeople and artisans, you will remain impressed for a long time. Knight tournaments are held according to all the rules of fencing fights and almost really show the audience the strength, agility and boldness of knights. Fights are held in the following nominations: “sword shield”, “two-handed sword”, “shield-ax”, “sword-sword”, “shield-spear” and others.

The culmination moment of the holiday is a mass battle, bugurt. First, knight groups fight in accordance with the production plan. In the battles take part layouts siege machines, pyrotechnic devices, rams. This is followed by a combat unit in which each knight conducts combat operations according to his own plan in order to win.

The fortress is often involved in filming. The uniqueness and photogenicity of the fortress attracts here many famous directors. Here were shooting the films "Othello", "Pirates of the XX century", "Hamlet", "Amphibian Man", "Primordial Russia", "Viking".

In 2004, the television series Master and Margarita was created by director V. Bortko (episodes on Calvary). Hence the name "Sudak Golgotha". Here, in 1994, he shot his picture “The Master and Margarita” by Y. Kara. Due to some disagreements, the picture was shown in closed view at the XXVIII Film Festival. In the open box office, it appeared only in 2011.

The Sugarloaf (Golgotha) rock is a small part of the reef where climbers train (and even have been victims). The views from it are impressive.

Walking through the fortress, you will find on its territory two large tanks (185 m3 and 350 m3) for water supplies, which flowed into them from the surrounding heights through special clay conduits. In greater capacity, the famous numismatics museum is now operating.

In the XIII century, a Venetian merchant M. Polo opened his business in Sugdey. His nephew, later famous navigator Marco Polo, often visited his uncle without showing much zeal for his business.

If you carefully examine the walls of the citadel, then they are easy to see the reddish lines, meaning the visual boundary between the ancient masonry and the modern superstructure, made in the process of restoration.

Focusing on the many positive reviews of tourists who visited the Sudak fortress, you can rightly say that This is one of the few places in Russia and not only where good rest so thoroughly and romanticly merges with the cognitive aspects of world history.

Gray and severe antiquity, which has come down to our days, makes us directly feel the mysterious connection of times and anew, in a new way to perceive ourselves and the world around us. You can be sure that this new attitude of the world, which you received during a kind of time travel, will never leave you.

Video review of the Genoese fortress in Sudak see below.