Choosing new jeans, many girls are faced with the problem of the lack of a model in a dimensional grid that is suitable for their height. The fact is that most fashion clothing manufacturers produce jeans designed for growth not lower than average.
Young ladies who did not manage to grow above 160 cm have to either hemmed jeans, or tucked, or (if other parameters allow) to buy jeans in the teenage clothing department.
The last option is not for everyone, and tucked-up jeans do not always look aesthetically pleasing, therefore, jeans can be considered the best solution. However, to make it beautiful and neat, it requires a certain skill. In today's article we want to share with you the secrets of how you can shorten jeans, while maintaining the factory seam.
How to hem using a sewing machine?
If you have a sewing machine at home, the task of stitching jeans is much easier. At the same time, the model of the machine is not important at all: an old mechanical assembly and a modern electronic device will do.
In addition to the sewing machine and jeans, you will need:
- thread, the closest in tone to the color of jeans;
- a set of sewing pins;
- tape measure;
- remnants or wax chalk;
- cutting scissors;
- If a new type of sewing machine, you will need a special needle to work on denim.
The first thing to do is to try on jeans and make the necessary measurements. It is very inconvenient to do this on yourself, so it is better to ask someone for help.
Try on jeans you need in the shoes with which you will wear them. Ask your assistant to bend the pants so that they do not reach a centimeter and a half to the floor, and pin the edge with pins. Take a close look at yourself in the mirror: the length of the pants should be the same.
Then you can act alone. Carefully remove the jeans so that the pins do not come off. Determine how many centimeters you need to shorten jeans. Divide this number by two and remember the result.
Turn the jeans on the front side and tuck the leg on as many centimeters as happened in the previous step. Factory hemming is not necessary to take into account. Check that the height of the hem is the same across the width of the leg. Secure the edge with pins, placing them perpendicular to the movement of the sewing machine foot.
Make a line on the edge of the factory hem. Then carry out a test fitting jeans.
Making sure that the length is chosen correctly, repeat the procedure for the second leg. After that, excess fabric should be trimmed, leaving 1.5 cm at the edge.
Now you need to carefully combine the factory side seams with the native hem below, since after cutting the jeans, the lines could shift to the side. This, at first glance insignificant, nuance can spoil the whole impression of your hard work.
Next, you need to handle the cut edge overlock. If you do not have such a device at home, this service will be provided in any sewing workshop or atelier. The seam can be made with threads of absolutely any color, since in the end it will be hidden from view.
Turn the trousers out and fasten the overlocked seam with another line on the sewing machine. If this is not done, it will curl down and spoil the appearance of the product. Then make a pair of tacks on the side seams at a height of about 1 cm.
All is ready! Wash your jeans, steam and iron the hem. If you pick up the thread exactly to match the trousers, the stitches made on the machine will be completely invisible.
Thick jeans
If you are going to stitch a warm model of jeans from thick denim, you need to act a little differently.
Since the material of the product is rather thick, the usual bending, even if it is made as carefully as possible, will be evident. Therefore, we need to make the thickness of all seams and allowances as small as possible.
- After you have attached a factory hem to the cropped trousers, you need to dissolve the seam allowance on the side seams and smooth them well in different directions.
- In addition, the stock on the factory hemming should be shortened to 3-5 mm, the stock on the leg - to sweep over manually.
- Then it is necessary to tuck in the “native” hem, to tack or pin the edge with pins and lay another line on the sewing machine.
Slim jeans
For summer jeans from thin denim will have its own characteristics of binder. Such models are usually sewn from fabric with the addition of elastane, so it tends to stretch. T
A polo hem on lightweight jeans will be very noticeable, so our task is to make the hem as thin and unobtrusive as possible.
The following describes the sequence of steps from the same point as in the previous section:
- The allowances needed for sewing the factory hem will be hidden inside. To do this as accurately as possible, shorten the allowance for the hem to 3-5 mm.
- Straighten the fabric on the allowances and smooth it in the direction of the factory bottom seam.
- Now tuck the bottom of the jeans over the original fold lines and sweep it in your arms.
- Once again, walk around the bottom of the pants with a hot iron, trying to smooth out all the elements of the hem.
- Make another seam on the sewing machine at a distance of about 1 mm from the factory.
- After that, the bottom of jeans again need to steam and iron.
Manual filing
In the absence of a sewing machine, sewing jeans will be harder, especially if you are not a very skilled needlewoman.
The main difficulty is to make a flat and strong line. After all, denim is a fairly dense material that is difficult to process. Therefore, you will need a needle and thread thicker, as well as a thimble.
The first stage of work is the measurement and trimming of jeans. Here we need to do everything the same way as we described in the previous section. After that, cut off the fragment with a factory seam from the cut-off hem of the trouser leg - then we will need only it.
Now turn the jeans inside out and start sewing the “native” hem to the trimmed edge of the product. It is best to sew the simplest underwear seam (it is also called French). A new stitch needs to be swept over the edge to prevent the fabric from falling.
Take the iron, and well otparte bottom pant legs on both sides. After that, the place of joining the edge of the pants and factory hemming will become almost unnoticeable.
Flared and narrowed pants hem so much more difficult, because the width of pant legs and cut factory seam will not match. In the first case, it is necessary to open the hem along the side seam and remove excess fabric, and in the second case, expand the bottom with inserts made of the same material.
Tips
Tip for originals
If you do not need to shorten jeans, and you only want to update a frayed bottom edge, you can use one interesting way. To do this you will need a long zip.
You can buy a new one, and you can unpick from an unnecessary thing.
- Divide the zipper into two parts (we do not need a dog).
- Cut off the frayed hem and attach the hem to the edge of the jeans and stitch.
- Then turn the pants on the front side and make another seam a centimeter from the bottom edge. As a result, you get jeans with an unusual and practical decor.
Advice for the lazy
There is another way of how to shorten jeans, which is popularly called “bachelor”.It is suitable for those who do not even have the minimum skills to handle a needle and thread, and who do not impose strict requirements on the aesthetic side of things.
- Having determined how many centimeters you need to cut jeans, the product needs to be tucked up and carefully folded.
- Then we straighten the trousers, turn them up a centimeter higher and then iron the fold again.
- We cut all unnecessary, from the seamy side we lubricate a centimeter of the hem with instant glue.
- Wrap the edge inward, press it tight across the width, wait a few minutes.
That's how elementary you can shorten jeans without using sewing accessories.