French manicure today is considered one of the classic types of design. Due to its versatility, it will always remain on the crest of a wave. Therefore, those who are still unfamiliar with the implementation of this design using modern coatings should become familiar with the features of the design itself and learn the step-by-step technique of its implementation.
Features
French, French manicure or French design - all these are the names of a single type of nail design. It appeared far not in France, but in America, today the technology has already turned 40 years old. The idea of its creation was born due to lack of time to paint the nails of actresses. That is why there was a need for a design that would fit any image that the founder of Orly Trading House created.
The classic version of the jacket has a bodily background and a white smile that forms part of the regrown nail.
Today, this trend is quite relevant in situations of strict dress code. The jacket itself has long gone beyond the classics: the focus of fashion trends is on color solutions, as well as decorating nails with a smile. The shape of the smile of a traditional French manicure may be different.
It depends on the features of the nail plate, and on the shape of the saw cut of the regrown edge. The width of the contrast band can vary, sometimes it is very thin, in other cases it is completely diagonal. For example, in almond-shaped nails, a smile is broader than an oval shaped marigold. And also today, a smile can be fantasy, which opens up a lot of opportunities to create a thematic and seasonal design.
Inverted jacket differs from the usual in that, in fact, is its mirror image. That is, his smile is located at the base of the nail bed. Such a manicure today is considered one of the most popular. It is used by beauty bloggers and celebrities.
The shape of such a smile can be very diverse. For example, in addition to the hole and imitation of the regrowth of the nail plate, it is diagonal, triangular, semicircular and made as a contour stroke. One of the features of the modern jacket is its combination with all known manicure techniques. At the same time, it can be the basis or its accents. Plates with a contrast smile can be decorated with different nail materials.
Ways of applying "smile"
A smile can be made in different ways. Beginners who are just beginning to learn to work with gel polish, should take into account the fact that due to the particular composition, you can work without haste. Coverage of the hybrid plan, which today perform French manicure, does not dry without a special lamp. Therefore, you can safely engage in design and adjust it before drying in the UV or LED device. As for the ways of applying the so-called smile, they depend on the design. In general, for beginners, the option of using auxiliary strips or foil tape is better. The main nuances of different options can be divided into traditional (brush and stripes) and fantasy (stamps, dots, stickers, fimo).
Brush
Using manicure brushes to form a french smile can be difficult for beginners.It is difficult to draw lines on all fingers equally so that the design looks professional. Of course, you can contrive and resort to fantasy drawings, but if there are no drawing skills, this manicure will not look beautiful. To learn how to draw the necessary lines, and even more so when drawing oneself for oneself, one should train on special stencils.
Stencils
Stencils for french are meant special strips of different shapes and widths. Depending on the desire of the client, you can use both traditional arc-shaped elements and angles, waves, zigzags, hearts. However, stencils do not simplify the work at 100%, as beginners can mistakenly think. Along with them, when separating from the base, some of the varnish that created the smile may also depart. And this means that you will not be able to do without a brush, because you will have to tinker with the lines.
Dots
Sets of sticks with different nozzles allow you to create one of the most popular to date designs french. At the ends of the tools are metal balls, which are dipped in a gel polish, and then put dots on the nail plate in the right places. It is easy to work with such a tool, but at least without a minimal workout you cannot make a beautiful smile. In addition to the need to clearly put the dots on the selected form, which should be ideally the same on other French nails, you need to do the dots of different sizes.
Stemping
This method is easy, because working with stamps that have an engraved pattern will work out perfectly the first time. Stemping is distinguished by the accuracy of the lines, for which this kind of design is chosen by the masters of nail service. Like the previous version, this kind of smile turns out to be fantasy. It is also applied to the accent nails of the manicure.
Slider design
Another solution to beat the lack of experience in nail art is island sliders or application sliders. Water stickers on a transparent basis are easy to use, this jacket looks incredibly gentle and beautiful. It takes not so much time to create the desired design as to tedious alignment of smile lines.
Fimo
This material is used for creative french. This decor is a variety of elements, cut into a thin layer of oblong sticks. This is a variety of stars, fruits, berries, which simply glue in the area of regrown nail plates. The decor is voluminous, and therefore it is impossible to call such a manicure convenient in everyday life. However, fimo can be used in aqua design, having sealed several layers of modeling tools on top.
Necessary tools and materials
Depending on the variant taken, the type of tools and the raw materials used for the design may differ. Let's take as a basis the traditional technique from which in the future it will be possible to build on and improve the design with various decorations. It is also important to first determine the type of manicure, because it can be normal or hardware.
As for working with the device, this method is more convenient and less traumatic for the nails and the skin around them. If there is no apparatus at home, and the woman is just beginning to get acquainted with the nail art, you can use the basic set for a manicure: nail scissors, a nail file, a pusher, tweezers.
Also for work you will need:
- rubber hoof;
- manicure wipes;
- dehydrator;
- soft polisher (baf);
- drying lamp for nails of the necessary power;
- base material;
- finishing agent;
- pigmented lacquer for the background;
- contrast pigment for a smile.
If you plan to perform a design on accent nails, prepare the decor designed by the design. When dots are needed for decorating, but there is none, you can use a regular wooden toothpick.
Preparation of nails and cuticles
Before proceeding with the preparation, the nails are treated with an antiseptic. After that, the file give the free edge of the nail plates the desired shape.At the same time, there is absolutely no movement back and forth: all the conditions are created for crumbling and further injury to the nails. In addition, two different directions of the file can cause detachment of manicure.
After that, a special cuticle remover is applied to the side rollers and the cuticle. It will help soften the skin and prepare it for faster and more painless removal. Once the tool is applied to all 5 nails, it is time for the most pleasant step of hygienic manicure. The hand is immersed in a bath of warm water (the water temperature should be at least 30–34 ° C). The hand should be in the water for about 3-4 minutes. After the required time has elapsed, the fingers wipe down and proceed to the manicure. Using a paddle, push back the cuticle and the skin on the sides. At the same time, it is impossible to press the tool too hard, so as not to injure either the skin or the nail.
Next, take the tweezers or clipper and cut off all the excess and keratinous around the nail plate. It is important to keep the tool at one angle and ensure that the cutting does not work intermittently. If everything is done correctly, then you can prevent the appearance of burrs in the future. After you walk with tweezers, you must take a pusher or an orange stick and clean out the pterygia. Before this, the stick must be wetted in water. Passing along the contour of the nail when cleaning pterigiya need to carefully. This stage will assess the quality of the work done with tweezers: understand how well you have cleaned the extra skin. If during the passage along the contour with an orange stick the remains of the skin are found, take a clipping patch and clean out something that was not cut off immediately.
The procedure is performed on each nail. After that, special cuticle oil is applied to the skin treatment sites. It is at this stage ends trimming manicure.
In order not to injure the skin, you can note a few tips of the masters in the field of nail service. For example, skin trauma may be due to abnormal movements of the scallop or nail scissors. You can not do it in spurts, and even lift the tool up. Remove the cuticle should be movements along the cutting of the skin.
In order to minimize the risk of skin injury at this stage and not to cut off the excess, you need to slightly delay the skin at the point of cutting. So it will be seen where the cut point ends, and the base line will not be torn. We must not forget that before cutting with the larger side of the pusher, the skin at the base of the nail is removed and only then lifted. As for the pterigia, it can also be cut off with the sharp edge of the pusher. It does not need to deepen the tool too far under the nail. Injured skin around the nail will spoil the appearance of the manicure, and at the same time the mood. In addition, about the nails that have undergone such stress will hurt for a long time. Proceed to further work with nails can only be directly before painting.
Step by step execution technique
To get a quality coating, you need to pick up sharp and comfortable tools. It is important not to forget to disinfect them. With the correct implementation of all stages of keeping the French manicure on the nails will be at least two weeks. One of the main reasons for its fragility may be insufficient drying of each layer. It is not necessary to reduce at its expense the time of general work, because as a result, the coating may begin to slip in a couple of days. It is better, on the contrary, to add time for the last (sealing) layer.
Making a French manicure on prepared nails is easy.
Whether in the salon, at home, the technology will be the same. It is not always convenient to make a manicure for yourself, and therefore it may take a longer amount of time. If you do not have enough information, you can refer to the video tutorials of professional masters of nail service.During the lessons, many professionals gradually demonstrate the ideal technique of execution, they learn how to perform step by step correctly.
To work closer move the top, base, pigments, thin brush, if necessary, stencils and a lamp. You need to start with the preparation of the nail.
- Strengthening and removal of gloss. At this stage you need to remove the top glossy layer from the nail plates. It is necessary for all the layers applied in the future to keep firmly and securely. The durability of the manicure will depend on this in the first place. Take the buff (soft rectangular grinder with a fine grain) and remove the gloss with light movements. Next, use a dehydrator, degreasing the working layer and removing the remnants of sawdust. Now you can proceed to a decorative manicure or strengthen the nails. The process of strengthening is necessary for thin and prone to brittle nails. In addition, it will be useful for nail plates, which rarely rest between manicures.
- Base coat. Removing residual sawdust and oiliness, degreasing the surface of the nails, they are applied a layer of base material with a transparent texture. Apply this material should be a very thin layer, because this will depend on the accuracy of work (a dense layer of funds will flow over the cuticle and side rollers). The base is dried in the lamp, the drying time depends on the type of device (from 30 seconds to two minutes). It is important to consider that to dry when working with gel varnish will have every applied layer. And each layer needs to be walked on the end of the nail, because the durability of the coating will depend on it. The base after drying may remain sticky, so you should try to avoid accidental touching.
- Background. With the traditional technique after the base layer take camouflage gel polish with a maximum hit in the skin tone. Put the pigment in two layers, with each of them dried in the lamp. So that the composition does not flow beyond the skin and evenly spread over the surface of the nail plate, you need to take a little pigment. It is undesirable to send the coating to the drying immediately after application: it is necessary to give the varnish the opportunity to be distributed on the plate, to get rid of the strips. Since it is rare for beginning masters to get neatly to the base of the nail, after the first layer of pigment is dried, they take a thin brush and paint it on the edge at the base of the nail. This eliminates the flow of varnish, and also allows you to trim the pigmented layer, thereby giving the aesthetics of the coating. After working with a brush, continue painting the nail with a second layer of pigment. Varnish dried in the lamp.
- Smile. It is better to apply a smile, which will give the service to a french, with special acrylic paint or gel. To do this, you can use and contrast to the main background gel polish. For beginners, it will be easier to use templates: depending on the type of stencil, this can be easy and fast. But if the stencil is attached unevenly, the smile will also be uneven. If there is no fear of manual panning, take a brush and remove with a white paint, first a thin line along the contour of the edge of the nail plate. Even a professional can sometimes shake the hand, which will lead to the formation of a defect. In this case, you can use a special tool, dipping a brush in it to correct the line. If the work is slow, the drawn line may spread a little.
To prevent this, you can remove the residual stickiness after drying the background gel polish. Now you can safely display the desired line, trimming its width. So you can not worry that the material will flow and the line will spread in width. To achieve the best accuracy in work, it’s worth drying two lamps in the lamp: the smile will not spread.
- Sealing After the smile is dried in the lamp, it is necessary to seal it. To do this, put a thin layer of top. Self-leveling material straightens the background covering with a smile, making an inconspicuous step near the smile line.However, if the smile was initially too thick, you need to use the buff, gently trimming the smile line in a delicate way. After that, you can put on top of another layer of top. The final drying will be the last stage of the work.
- Dressing Understanding what a French manicure technique is, you can diversify it, leaving one or two nails under the design. They can not make a smile, but instead put a sticker on the accent, transfer the pattern using disposable stencils. The design with a pattern will also look beautiful. You can paint anything on such nails: you can even decorate a French manicure with a seasonal pattern. Today, this trend is quite popular.
You should not gloss over a smile with varnish on top with sparkles. This erases a clear outline, the coating can lose expressiveness. As for mother-of-pearl, it will be more rubbish on the background basis of the french, more weightless. It is applied before sealing, make a smile over it. The pearl dust jacket looks especially tender, today it is considered the best material for creating a special effect of the background coating.
You can quickly and easily decorate French manicure with stickers or so-called slider design. To do this, after applying the base material and pigment with their mandatory drying, one more thin layer of the base is applied to the accent nail. Applique the picture on a wet napkin, wait 30 seconds, then remove it from the paper backing, apply it to the nail on a layer of undried base. The slider is leveled, then dried, strengthened with a base and sealed with a layer of top.
How to use strips?
Stencils and stripes for jacket today can be used in different ways. They are glued, retreating from the edge of the required distance. No need to press the template into the newly applied and dried coating. Immediately after covering the prepared area, the strip or stencil is removed, because it will not work after drying.
Strips in ready sets, and also rolls are on sale. Rolled versions give only a straight edge, which is not always convenient due to the peculiarities of the nail plates. The sets are variable in shape, it is convenient to work with them. Beginners can be advised to use, in addition to the strips, a special silicone agent that protects the skin around the nails from the ingress of varnish. Anything that will fall on the film can be removed, thereby increasing the accuracy of the work.
How to make a French manicure gel polish, see the video below.