Russian folk costume

Despite the change of names and the political system, Our country carries the ancient and special cultural values ​​of our ancestors. They consist not only in art, traditions, characteristic features of the nation, but also in national costume.

The old Russian costume is considered to be the national dress of the population of Russia of the pre-Mongol invasion and Muscovy, before Peter I came to power. Hand the formation of special features of clothes was influenced by several factors: close relations with Byzantium and Western Europe, withlevel climatic conditions, activities of the vast majority of the population (cattle breeding, tillage).

The clothes were sewn mainly from flax, cotton, wool, and in itself it had a simple cut and a long, closed style. But those who could afford it, in every possible way decorated a modest outfit with immodest decorative elements: pearls, beads, silk embroidery, embroidery with gold or silver thread, fur trim. The national costume was also distinguished by its bright colors (crimson, scarlet, azure, green).

The costume of the era of Moscow Rus from the 15th to the 17th century retained its characteristic features, but underwent some changes in the direction of a more sophisticated cut. The class divisions influenced the differences in the costumes of the population: the richer and more notable was the person, the more multi-layered was his attire, and they were worn both indoors and outdoors, regardless of the season. Swing and fitted clothes appeared, and Eastern and Polish culture exerted its influence. In addition to flax, cloth, silk, and velvet materials were used. There is a tradition to sew bright clothes and richly decorate them.

At the turn of the XVII - XVIII centuries, Peter I issued decrees prohibiting everyone except peasants and priests to wear national costumes, which played a negative role in their development. Decrees were issued to establish political relations with the European allies, to adopt their culture. People were forcibly inculcated in taste, replacing chic, but long-sex and uncomfortable multi-layered clothes with more comfortable and lightweight European clothes with short kaftans, low-cut dresses.

The Russian national costume remained in the use of the people and the merchants, but nevertheless adopted some fashion trends, for example, a sundress belted under the breast. In the second half of the XVIII century, Catherine II made an attempt to return some national identity to the European costumes that came into fashion., especially with regard to the materials used and the pomp of the finish.

The 19th century brought back the demand for national costume, in which patriotism, which is increasing due to the Patriotic War, played its part. Sundresses and kokoshniks returned to use by noble ladies. They were sewn from brocade, muslin, batista. Appearing clothes, for example, “female uniform”, may outwardly not resemble a national costume, but still had a certain symbolic division into a “shirt” and “sundress”. In the 20th century, due to the separation from European suppliers, there was a kind of return of national outfits, and in the second half, in the 70s, it was no more than a fashionable trend.

Despite the fact that there is a certain traditional set of clothes, due to the large territory of the country national costume took on the characteristics of certain regions. The North-Russian set is a dress, and a little more ancient South Russian - a new one. In central Russia, the suit was more similar to the north, but features of the southern regions were encountered.

Sundresses were hinged and deaf, had a trapezoidal style, sewed from one or more canvases. More simple sundresses are products on the straps, straight cut. Festive sewed from silk and brocade, and for daily activities and life - cloth and calico. Sometimes on top of the sundress wore a warm jacket.

Each province had its own preferences and peculiarities in decoration, colors, elements and even names. In Voronezh Governorate, orange-colored embroidery was decorated, geometric symbols were distributed in Arkhangelsk, Tver and Vologda, and the fact that in Yaroslavl Governorate was called “feryaz”, in Smolensk it was “Fortlin”.

In the modern world, its own special fashion, but the people have an interest in sources, national dress. Traditional outfits can be seen in museums and sometimes at exhibitions, they are used for theatrical and dance performances, on holidays. Many designers and fashion designers use the characteristic features of Russian folk costume in their collections, and some of them, like researchers, go deep into detailed study, for example, Sergey Glebushkin and Fyodor Parmon.

The multiplicity of dress was characteristic of all segments of the population. While at the working people the suit could consist of seven elements, at rich noblemen already from twenty. One clothes was put on over another, whether it is oar, deaf, cap, on fasteners and ties. A close-up silhouette is practically not peculiar to the national one; on the contrary, free, trapezoidal styles are in high esteem, and the length is in most cases floor.

Long since the Russian people had a passion for bright colors that bring joy. The most common are red, blue, gold, white, blue, pink, crimson, green, gray. But besides them, each province had its own preferences in shades of which there were a great many: cowberry, cornflower, smoky, nettle, lemon, poppy, sugar, dark cloves, saffron - and these are only a few of them. But black color was used only in elements of some regions, and then for a long time was associated exclusively with mourning attire.

From ancient times embroidery had a sacred meaning for the Russian national costume. First of all, she always acted not as decoration, but as a talisman, protection from evil spirits. The pagan symbolism did not sink into oblivion even with the advent of Christianity, but the ornaments acquired new elements, combining the old Slavic and new church motifs. Protective charms embroidered on the collar, cuffs, hem. The most commonly used color solution was red threads on a white canvas, and after that multicolourness began to spread.

Over time, embroidery acquired a rather decorative character, although it carried in itself plots of ancient ornaments and patterns. The development of gold-embroidery art, freshwater pearl embroidery, and crafts, elements of which were transferred from dishes and furniture to clothing, also played a role in changing the value. The original Russian pattern assumes geometric strict forms, almost complete absence of rounded elements, which was caused by the embroidery technique. The most common motifs and specific symbols are the sun, flowers and plants, animals (birds, horses, deer), female figurines, huts, figures (diamonds, beveled cross, herringbone, rosettes, octagonal stars).

In addition to embroidery, nobility dresses were decorated with buttons. (wooden buttons entwined with cantle, lace, pearls, and sometimes precious stones), toruzhevom and fur on the hem and neck, stripes, necklaces (embroidered with pearls, fastened collar of satin, velvet, brocade). Of the additional elements are false sleeves, belts and sashes, bags sewn to them, jewelry, couplings, hats.

The modern women's national costume is a kind of compilation of several characteristics at once, because in fact there are a lot of types and variants of the original Russian costume. Most often we imagine a shirt with voluminous long sleeves, a colored or red sundress. However, the simplified version, although it is the most common, is far from the only one, since many designers and folk artists simply return to the traditions of their regions, which means different styles and elements come into use.

Costumes for girls and children They are very similar to adult models and include shirts, jackets, pants, sundresses, aprons, skirts, hats. Mostly children's models can be stitched with short sleeves, for more comfort, and in principle to have a general look of a dress, but with certain national elements. For teenage girls, there is a greater variety of adult models, and not only sundresses and shirts, but also fur coats, having changed.

Winter folk costume is a lot of heavy clothing. In addition to a warm woolen sarafan, a part of the outfit for the cold season is a short swing coat, a feathering dress, a warm jacket, padded jackets, fur coats, wool stockings, warm hats and shawls. In the richer versions of the present fur.

Stage costumes There are two types: most similar to real national costumes (for the choir), in which tailoring rules are observed and stylized, which have many traditional elements, but the necessary deviations are allowed. For example, dresses for dance, Russian folk dance or other dance styles should, first of all, be as comfortable as possible, so skirts can be shortened, overly lush, and sleeves are not only long, but also, “flashlights”. In addition, stage costumes, if it is not a theatrical production, are richly decorated and as bright as possible, attracting attention.

Particularly elegant and luxurious look wedding national costumes. For the rich and noble, they were sewn from heavy expensive fabrics, and the people could afford more simple ones, such as linen. White color was considered a symbol of holiness, therefore wedding dresses were made in other colors - silver, cream or multi-colored, elegant. The presence of embroidery of symbols of flora - berries, leaves, flowers was considered obligatory. In addition, the concept of a wedding dress included four sets of clothes at once - for a pre-wedding party, weddings, ceremonies and celebrations.

Folk costumes as close as possible to the source. Craftsmen recreate costumes with the characteristic features of a particular region, province. Carnival costumes can be similar to folklore or, conversely, be simplified in many ways. However, holiday dresses are undoubtedly bright and most decorated.

National flavor is one of the special styles in fashion.because it involves the interweaving of modern fashion trends and traditional features in the culture of a given people. Slavic and Russian motives are loved not only by our compatriots, but also by some foreign designers. In such clothes you can appear at any event, while looking ultra-stylish and appropriate.

The modern style adopted in itself primarily colors, ornaments, embroidery. Familiar patterns are found on fashionable pencil skirts, knee-length dresses, blouses.Long dresses and sundresses in the floor look the most authentic national dress. I changed the fashion and individual elements, especially for stoles and shawls, shoes, hats.

Folk costume includes clothing, shoes, hats. The main element is a long shirt, over which a sundress, skirt or subwoofer is put on, fastened with a special belt. Over the capes and skirts sometimes wear an apron. Above the shirt and sundress are acceptable ladies wear, fur coats.

The traditional headdress that has come down to our times is a festive kokoshnik, however, besides him, part of the costume is hoops, ribbons, headbands, scarves. Authentic outfit involves the mandatory use of jewelry, pearl necklaces, embroidered detachable collars. Among the shoes it is worth mentioning boots and long boots, bast shoes, felt boots for winter.

In Russia, linen, bedding, cloth, silk, velvet, and woolen materials were used for tailoring, and kindyak was used as a lining. These fabrics were available to the overwhelming majority of the population. But the rich class could afford expensive costumes made of taffeta, damask, brocade, obyar, satin, kutni, satin, speckled.

It is easiest to rent Russian folk costume in carnival clothing stores. Most often the costumes are pretty monotonous, simple, made of cheap materials available. Dance or stage costumes can be sewed on orders from costume designers and in the atelier that provides such services. But you can buy a ready-made outfit on many sites engaged in sewing not only stylized clothing, but also similar to traditional Slavic clothing. These sites are easy to find in a search engine, and one of the most famous is the Russian Vintage shop (bestavantage).

• Costume from the collection "The Enchantment of the Russian North." An elegant sarafan of rich blue color with a floral black and orange ornament, a beige fur coat and corundum in tone (headdress), and a warm scarf over it. Since the costume is winter, the most suitable shoes are felt boots.

• A loose red sundress on the straps, floor-length, belted under the chest with an embroidered belt. Under a sundress shirt with long straight sleeves and a print with traditional patterns.

• Winter red sundress made of thick fabric and embroidered poppies on the hem. Over the suit there is a black fur coat with fur trimming of the sides and wide flared sleeves, leather clasps, embroidery, as well as on a sundress. At the feet of boots, and on his head - a hat with a fur trim.