Ukrainian national costume

Any folk costume embodies the identity of the nation, its aesthetic ideal, aspirations and values. This phenomenon has developed over the centuries, and it is difficult to overestimate its historical and artistic significance. In this regard, the Ukrainian national costume is a multifaceted phenomenon. He embodies the Slavic soul, oriental love for bright colors and at the same time a Western touch of refined elegance.

Ukrainian national costume has its history since ancient timeswhen Slavic tribes from Dnieper (at that time not yet united in Kievan Rus) had such a garment as an embroidered shirt, which they wore without any outerwear. The formation of the costume continued uninterruptedly until the 19th century, while it closely intertwined with other cultural traditions.

It was the culture of the ancient Slavs that became the cradle for the Ukrainian, as well as for the Russian, Belarusian style of dress. No wonder these ethnic groups have so much in common both in history and in national dress. Ukrainian costume has many faces, in each region of the country (Polesie, Dnieper, Carpathians, etc.) it has its own characteristics. This is due, inter alia, to the fact that Ukraine borders on Moldova, Poland, and reflected in the clothing features of neighboring nations.

The national costume of Ukraine is distinguished by the following characteristics:

• Simple style, combining beauty and practicality.
• Saturation decor (hand embroidery, lace, ribbons).
• The clothes are made of natural fabrics.
• Bright contrasting colors.
• The dress organically complements the original shoes and accessories.
• Ornaments, patterns, color solutions carry a deep symbolic meaning.

Separately it is worth staying on a traditional embroidery. Embroidery was not just women's needlework, but a manifestation of the creative skills and talent of the peasant woman. This activity brought joy to the difficult life of a woman, through the color palette she could convey her feelings and faith in the best. Vyshivanka is a very beautiful amulet. In ancient times, people believed that hand-embroidered symbols and drawings, possessing magical powers, can protect against evil forces. In a special way, Ukrainians wore embroidered shirts and blouses mainly on holidays and merry parties.

For men's clothing were characterized by strict geometric patterns that personified courage and courage. Female patterns differed intricacy, elegance, complex interlacing of lines. Vyshivanka could represent flowers, grapevine, leaves, symbolizing love, youth, tenderness, innocence.

As for the overall color of the Ukrainian costume, it was a white background or other light colors, combined with red and other bright colors (azure, green, brick, smoky) of wreaths, ribbons, belts and other items of clothing. With a variety of regional options, a single artistic line is clearly visible.

The basis of the suit men acted simple shirt, made of coarse linen. Wide and short, it looked like a Russian kosovorotku, only the neckline was located in the middle. A turn-down collar or sinus neckline was decorated with hand embroidery.

The shirt was traditionally tucked into harem pants, which were fixed on the belt with a cord on a wide buckle. Cloth or canvas trousers were blue or red and were so wide that they looked like a bag. Such clothes were convenient for everyday work, military service and, of course, for performing the traditional male dance - gapak.

Pants and shirt girded a wide sash, needlewomen embroidered it with intricate patterns (the belts were very long, they were hooked, it was indecent to walk unconnected). From above, the men put on a sheepskin casing, which warmed up well in the cold without holding down movements.

Women's national clothing of Ukraine is more diverse and sophisticated than men's. The shirt of the Ukrainian, or Koszul, was longer than the man’s, and was certainly decorated with embroidery along the edge of the neckline, at the bottom and on the cuffs of the sleeves. The lower part of the Koshuli (pidtychka), unlike the upper, was sewed from coarse fabric. Dodilnu - solid version - worn exclusively on holidays. This shirt was sewn from expensive white linen. In general, the festive (dance or carnival) clothes of the Ukrainian woman looked extremely bright, original, differed by more luxurious embroidery.

Young girls traditionally wore shirts without any outerwear. They were girded with red ribbons or cushions with embroidery. Married women must have completed the outfit with a zupan (this is a sleeveless jacket), as well as a belt outerwear. This could be a jerk - a working thing, up to three meters wide, which was going to the back in wide folds. Another option - the reserve, consisting of two parts, which are connected strings. And finally, festive wares for clothes - plakhta - made from silk or brocade, later from wool with a checkered pattern. As a bottom, girls and women put on a long skirt of variegated colors - to wear, over which there was always an apron embroidered in patterns.

As for the children's national costume in Ukraine, it looked like an adult, although it had a number of differences. Boys and girls also wore embroidered shirts, which were sewn from rectangular canvases (in front, back and sleeves). Children's embroidery differed more modest ornament.

The girl, as well as women, also wore peoneu, only her length was up to the knee or slightly higher. Over the dress embroidered apron. The boy was dressed in an embroidered shirt, blue trousers, girdled with a wide silk sash. Embroidery on the shirt was more restrained than that of girls. The children put on their boots on the heels of medium length, usually red.

If for boys the headdress was optional, then for the girl it was an obligatory attribute. Little girls wore modest half-woolens with ribbons, and girls on the issue - lush wreaths that looked like a crown. Married women always wore a headdress - eyeglasses, and, going to church or visiting, they covered their head with a scarf

The elements of traditional Ukrainian stylistics are very fashionable in modern clothes. This is expressed primarily in the decoration of clothing. The most popular ethnic dress of light fabric with contrasting embroidery. For everyday choices this is a satin stitch technique, a cross, and for festive occasions it is ribbons or beads.

We describe in more detail some elements of Ukrainian folk clothing:

• Yupka - outerwear like a jacket.
• Corset - women's sleeveless jacket, in different regions had a special cut, color and ornament.
• Keptar is a similar variant with fur.
• Leybik - woolen vest, popular in the West and the North of Ukraine.
• Andarak is a self-woven skirt of red color, decorated at the bottom with a wide stripe of embroidery.
• Zapazka - skirt for everyday wear, consisting of two sections of fabric, which were tied with braid on the side.
• Plakhta is a festive version of the skirt, made of expensive material (silk, brocade, wool), embroidered with bright unique patterns. Such a thing expressed the individuality of a woman.

Ukrainian costume is made of natural fabrics - flax and cotton, batiste and wool. Silk and cotton were brought from Eastern countries, but at the same time the own production of these fabrics was also developing. In the urban environment there were such specializations of artisans as mulberry, clothmakers and canvas. Other fabrics that were also used in the tailoring of folk costumes were imported: taffeta and satin, calico and bucket and others.

Today, the national costume of Ukraine (male, female or children's) can be bought or rented in specialized stores or agencies. This outfit will highlight you at any event, be it a wedding presentation or a carnival party. Children's kit - the original solution for the matinee in kindergarten or school holiday. Your child is guaranteed to be the center of attention.

Exquisite evening dress in the Ukrainian style, which will decorate with him any solemn event. Straight slightly fitted silhouette complements the luxurious wide sleeves, gathered at the wrist. Beautiful embroidery with floral patterns focuses on the triangular neckline and chest. Embroidered golden lines are organically combined with a similar color with open cape shoes. The dress, made of flowing silky fabric, has a classic length, slightly opening the knees. The image is completed by a burgundy clutch with a decorative element also of Ukrainian stylistics.

Look in the video of Vogue UA for images of Ukrainian women of the end of the XIX and early XX centuries