One of the ways to quickly transform the appearance by visually hiding the “problem” areas of the face is to change the shape of the eyebrows. Unfortunately, if it is chosen without taking individual characteristics into account, even the most attractive face can acquire an unnatural, dull, gloomy, or overly surprised look. How to correct and color eyebrows?
Features
Eyebrows can change facial expression beyond recognition. That is why it is so important to learn how to choose the right shape. Too thin or unnatural eyebrows make the face artificial. For girls with small features, over-wide eyebrows should be taboo, they look ridiculous.
Eyebrow correction can be done both independently and by a professional.
In general, the procedure can not be called difficult, if armed with appropriate tools and the necessary knowledge.
Conventionally, the correction can be divided into long-term and short-term. Under the long-term imply microblading, tattooing, the effect after which lasts for a period of a year to several years.
Short-term correction will continue until the hairs begin to grow. On average, it is 2-3 weeks.
Eyebrow correction is a procedure in violation of the integrity of the skin, so it is important to ensure its safety. This involves disinfecting the working area, hands and materials, as well as disinfecting the eyebrow area after the procedure.
Kinds
There are several common forms of eyebrows, but before they are considered their features, you should decide on some terms. The beginning, or the head of the eyebrow, originates at the bridge of the nose. The middle part or body is the main area of the eyebrow, includes a bend. The tip is called otherwise the tail, usually it is already the head and body of the eyebrow.
Regardless of the type chosen, the ideal shape assumes that 2/3 of the eyebrow falls on the head and body, and only 1/3 is the tip of the eyebrow after a break.
Depending on the points at which the head and the tip lie, such forms as:
- Straight. At the same time, the head and tail lie in the same plane, due to which it is possible to visually make the forehead wider and “correct” too long face.
- Ascending The head is located just above the tip, the latter is usually directed to the temples. Thanks to this form, it is possible to slightly narrow the face and stretch it.
- Downward The tip of the eyebrow is slightly higher than the head - this form is usually not used, and if it is a natural type of eyebrows, then it is better to correct it. The fact is that they give a person a dull expression.
In addition, it is customary to allocate the following forms:
- Rounded. They are characterized by a smooth arc-like bend, rounded off beginning and tail. Usually this form occurs in women of the eastern type. Suitable for a square, diamond-shaped and rectangular face, allows you to hide excessive "angularity" and rudeness features.
- Triangular. It is also called a "house", with moderate bending and respecting proportions, this form looks elegant and flirtatious. If you do not follow these rules, the person acquires an astonished and unnatural expression.
- Curved. These are eyebrows with a break, a pronounced break. They invariably catch the eye and when changing the shape of the arch and the proportions of the eyebrows are suitable for almost every type.
Broken eyebrows allow you to divert attention from the "problem" areas of the face, visually young.
How to choose the type of person?
The most harmonious face shape is oval. All other types, far from it, can be made more attractive with the help of various makeup tricks and the right shape of eyebrows.
So, chubby girls can recommend eyebrows with a pronounced break. They are characterized by a thin tip, the reduction of which begins from the middle of the eyebrow. It is important to achieve a natural bend, and not to turn eyebrows into sharp "ticks."
For this type, you can also recommend ascending eyebrows. They have a less pronounced bend, and the tip here tends, not downwards, but towards the temple.
With a round face, both wide and narrow eyebrows should be avoided. The former make the face even more massive and round, while the latter give the face an unnatural expression.
Eyebrows with a noticeable kink are also recommended for a square face, they should be made smooth, rounded at the base. The bend should occur over the middle of the eye or its outer corner. If necessary, it is recommended to extend the tip, the eyebrow should turn out to be slightly longer than usual. To direct the tip to the temples. As for the width, it should be medium or slightly wider. Thin eyebrows look on a square face unattractive, making the already large bottom even more massive.
This form is also suitable for the face-rectangle. Not bad on this face will look broad straight eyebrows. It is important not to move them too close, otherwise the face will become even more elongated. The tip of the eyebrow should be a little sharpened and sent to the temples.
With a triangular face type, the eyebrows should be slightly shorter, but at the same time fairly thick, with a natural curve. The tip can be slightly wrapped inside, giving it a more rounded shape.
If you have a heart-shaped face, then it is important to select eyebrows that will allow to achieve a balance between the upper and lower part of the face. For this optimum ascending eyebrows with a pronounced arch. They can not lead to the lower part of the face, and should be directed to the temples. Do not choose too wide and thick eyebrows, they will weight the forehead area.
A pear shaped face requires a visual increase in the volume of the forehead and temples in order to balance these parts with the expanding lower area of the cheeks and chin. Fit and thick eyebrows with a bend. The less expressive the eyes, the more noticeable the “arch” should become.
The bend should be moved closer to the outer corner of the eye.
For a diamond-shaped face, you should choose a rounded eyebrow or a variant with a blurred bend. Too sharp arch only emphasizes the "angularity" of the face.
The oval shape is considered to be one of the most successful, so its owners can afford almost any shape. Classic are considered medium-thick eyebrows with a soft fracture. Arcuate give the image of softness, romance. However, you should carefully consider the width of the eyebrows, the point of bending. Otherwise, the eyebrows will turn into "houses", giving the face an unnatural expression of constant amazement. Wide ascending eyebrows fit oval, but too thin, elongated face. They will visually make it a little more rounded.
When choosing a form, it is important not only to select it according to the shape of the face, but also focusing on the facial features. So, with close eyebrows, it is recommended to increase the space between the eyebrows in the area of the nose and to make the eyebrows themselves thinner. At the same time, it is important to ensure that in the nose bridge area there is no space left of the hairs that is not wider than two fingers of the hand (index and middle, joined together).
As for the color, it should coincide with the shade of the hair, and for blondes to be 2-3 tones darker.Today, stylists say that even brown-haired and black-haired girls are not recommended to choose black eyebrows. They look rough and even vulgar, they add a few years to the face.
Correcting the shape of the eyebrows, it is important to remember about their natural appearance. As a rule, professionals only slightly correct the natural form, so that the person retains the natural appeal.
How to determine the proportions?
To build a correct eyebrow, you need to pick up a white cosmetic pencil (in principle, you can take a color one, but dark lines can be distracting). First you need to select 3 points - the beginning of the eyebrow, its highest point and end.
The first one can be found by placing a pencil from the wing of the nose to the eyebrow. This will be the start of the brow. Further from the wing of the nose through the middle of the pupil it is necessary to draw an imaginary line to the eyebrow. This will be the highest point. It is necessary to look straight ahead, so that the location of the pupil does not move. Finally, putting the pencil to the wing of the nose, you should draw a line through the outer corner of the eye to the eyebrow. This will be the point of its end.
Next, the target points should be connected with lines, drawing the desired shape.
If you decide to radically change the shape of the eyebrows, then you can apply a tonal tool on their entire surface, and then make the necessary “markup”. After that you should draw a suitable shape and cover it with a brown pencil. So you will understand approximately how the new form will look on your face.
From the beginning to the middle of the eyebrows, a uniform thickness should be maintained, the narrowing begins at the break point or slightly earlier. To achieve proportionality allows the work immediately with both eyebrows. It is wrong to first pluck out one eyebrow, and then another.
The correct form involves the removal of hair in the lower part of the eyebrow. Plucking hairs from above is fraught with the fact that the look will be heavy. In addition, with this method it is impossible to significantly change the shape. Finally, the hairs above the eyebrow grow slowly, so pulling out too much, you risk a long time to change shape.
Ways of registration
Eyebrow shaping is usually done with tweezers or threads. The first method is considered more painful, however, it is available to almost everyone, while the technique of removing the thread involves the possession of certain skills.
In addition, the work will require a mirror. Its dimensions must be such that it completely reflects the face. It is better when the mirror has a stand, so hands will remain free. Experts use a mirror with a magnifying glass that allows you to make out even small hairs.
In addition, you should prepare a disinfectant solution, which is treated working areas, hands, tools. If the face has makeup, then you will also need a means to remove it.
In case of severe pain syndrome, pain relievers, special creams can also be used. In their absence, you can use a warm solution of chamomile, as well as ice cubes.
Salon adjustment
Correction in the cabin can be an analogue of the home plucking. It is better to rely on professionals if you make a correction for the first time, real professionals change their shape taking into account the individual features of the face, select the appropriate shade. In the future, you will be able to maintain it yourself or undergo repeated professional corrections.
Correction and architecture of eyebrows - the so-called service in most salons, involves the coloring of hairs, the selection and giving them the desired shape.
Most of the masters work with tweezers, and they can be removed with the help of threads.
If the hair above the eyebrow, in fact, already on the forehead, is too much, the master can first use wax in order to achieve smooth skin. It should not be applied in the area close to the eyes, especially at the bottom of the eyebrow.
If you want to achieve the perfect shape for a long time, you can recommend a tattoo. The master selects a suitable form, after which pigment is injected under the skin to a depth of 0.5 mm. At first, such eyebrows look unnaturally bright, but after a week they look quite natural. The result is enough for several years.
Today, there are the following methods of tattoo:
- Shooting It involves drawing the contour of the eyebrow and filling the resulting shape with pigment. This method is inferior to other technologies, since the result is not the most natural.
- Hairy. Allows to achieve attractiveness and naturalness due to the fact that individual hairs are drawn.
- Combined. Allows you to achieve the most attractive result, because it combines the advantages of feathering and hair technology.
If the tattoo is performed using a special apparatus (working on the principle of a tattooing tool), then today's popular microblading technique is done manually. First, the master draws the form with a pencil, then manually draws individual hairs with a thin sharp needle with dye pigment.
The microblading penetration depth of the pigment is slightly less than 0.5 mm, and its excess, appearing on the surface of the skin, is immediately removed. When you turn to a professional in your business, you will get a better and more natural result as compared to a tattoo. However, keep such brows will be on average a year.
When using European microblading technology, it is possible to achieve the effect of thick broad eyebrows, as the master draws hairs of the same length and thickness. However, upon closer inspection, it is clear that they are not real.
Eastern technology is carried out with great consideration for the features of growth and direction of hair, so eyebrows look more natural. However, it is impossible to significantly change their shape with this technique.
Finally, there is an eyebrow extension method that allows you to gain thick and beautiful eyebrows in a couple of hours. At the same time they are difficult to distinguish from the natural. The essence of the method is the same as in eyelash extensions.
One natural hair is fixed from 1 to 3-4 artificial ones, which are as close as possible to yours in color and structure.
How to draw by yourself?
If you make a correction yourself, you need to remove makeup and clean your face. Prepare at once all the necessary tools and decide on the choice of form. Schemes and methods for determining the appropriate proportions and forms were given in the appropriate section of this article.
Today eyebrow stencils are on sale. It is enough to pick a suitable "contour" and circle it, then remove all the hairs that extend beyond the boundaries of the pencil lines. The advantage of this method is that it allows you to quickly get an almost perfect shape of the eyebrows. Why "almost"? Such stencils do not take into account individual features of the face.
Before plucking the hairs, you need to comb it up a bit, using a special brush or an old and well-washed brush for eyelashes. If the procedure is too painful, plucking can be preceded by applying chamomile lotions.
To do this, a teaspoon of dried chamomile flowers is poured with a glass of hot water and infused for 10-15 minutes. Warm to the skin tolerated, infusion is impregnated with a cotton wool, squeeze it and put in the hair removal zone for 2-3 minutes.
Under the influence of heat, the pores will open and the hair will “slip out” faster and painlessly. Chamomile infusion is also characterized by anesthetic, bactericidal and wound healing properties.
If you use tweezers, then you need to grab the hairs one by one, slightly pulling the skin in this area and pulling the hair in a sharp movement in the direction of its growth. If you do not take into account the direction of growth, the procedure will be more painful and threatens with hair ingrowth.
For the same reason, you should grab the hair closer to the base, which will avoid its breakage and further ingrowth. After the procedure, the skin is disinfected. For severe inflammation, an anesthetic or cooling gel can be used. The main thing that he had a light water structure.
Another option is triling, that is, removal using threads. This method requires a certain skill and skill, but has several advantages. During one grab with a thread, several hairs can be removed at once, and the irritation after such a procedure passes faster. An important advantage - the hairs eventually become softer and thinner.
Need to use a special thread, called the Arab. It is rather dense, but it slides well through the hairs, while it does not tear and does not stretch.
From this thread should be cut "piece" a length of half a meter and tie its ends.
The resulting oval is twisted so that it turns out 2 loops, and the thread itself is stretched between the index fingers of divorced hands to the desired width.
It is necessary to shift the center of the twisted thread, get the hairs closer to this point and move this center to the other side. The hairs will be trapped and removed.
At home, you can also paint the eyebrows, choosing for this purpose specialized paints or henna. Should be painted before plucking or a few days later, when the inflammation subsides. If stained immediately after correction, the pigment particles will fall into open pores and cause the development of the inflammatory process.
To maintain the beauty of the eyebrows and give them a well-groomed appearance both after the salon and after home procedures allows styling. To do this, the hairs need to be combed and combed up a bit, giving the desired shape. You can fix it with special gels. If those were not at hand, the usual hairspray will do. It should be a little spray on the old (clean) brush for mascara or teeth. While the lacquer is not grabbed, you need to hold the brush over the hairs, laying them in the desired way.
Tinting eyebrows helps to make them more expressive, emphasize a beautiful bend. It is better to use special shadows for this, applying them with a beveled brush. Stylists recommend choosing a lighter shade for the head than for the body and the tip, carefully shading the borders between shades. This will make the look open, and facial features - more feminine.
Sharpening white shadows, a white pencil or highlighter on the area under the curve can also be used to emphasize bending. The main thing - carefully shade cosmetic.
Care Tips
After the procedure, you can wipe the face and the area with an ice cube. It will narrow the pores and relieve inflammation. You can increase the effectiveness of this method by preparing cosmetic ice based on herbal infusions. You can make chamomile or calendula, insist on the decoction and, after filtering it, pour it into ice molds.
After the procedure, you should not use fat creams that clog pores. This can provoke inflammation. By the way, do not apply cream, wax or gel to the hairs before removing them. Tweezers or thread will slide, it will be difficult to pull a hair.
Extend the effect of the quality of the correction, as well as always maintain the edge in a tidy state allows periodic (once in 2-4 days) removal of small blond hairs. As a rule, most girls do it just before applying makeup.
The main thing - do not forget about the rules of disinfection.
To improve hair growth, as well as to give them smoothness and silkiness, shine, oil masks allow. To do this, dip the eyebrow brush (it is convenient to use the washed brush from the mascara) in the oil and hold it over the eyebrows. Burdock, peach or castor oils are well suited for this purpose. Before use, it is recommended to warm them up a little.
It is better to do the procedure in the evening, and immediately before going to bed the excess oil should be removed with a dry napkin. If this is not done, there is a risk of staining the bedding, as well as transferring the oil to the mucous eyes, due to which those will be swollen and reddened in the morning.
It is important that in your diet in sufficient quantities were present vitamins A, C, E, as well as omega-3 and other natural fats. You can drink a course of vitamins for hair and nails.
See the next video for the seven secrets of perfect eyebrows.