Manual washing of clothes and other things

Despite all the comforts of a washing machine, some things need special care and control in the course of washing, which can only be done manually. Contrary to stereotype, not only children's clothes, silk and wool deserve hand washing. Thanks to this care, clothes and underwear will serve you longer and delight with their appearance.

All things around us get dirty in varying degrees - sometimes not even visible to the human eye. This process is influenced by several factors:

1. Structure (porous things are affected more);
2. Surface (smooth fabrics in this regard are much more practical than uneven ones - knitted or printed patterns);
3. The ability to pass particles of dirt through itself;
4. The ability to hold these particles in themselves;
5. The finishing of the material (that is, those processes that can change their characteristics);
6. Electrostatic voltage (it literally attracts dust).
7. Absorbability (the higher it is, the more substances are retained inside);
8. Composition (the addition of synthetics increases contamination). Natural fabrics, such as wool, are less likely to trap dirt on their surface. Although if it looks clean from the outside - then inside the threads everything can be the other way around.

All pollution is divided into:

• Local (local) - for their cleansing it is not necessary to wash the entire product, unless there are divorces after that.
• General (affecting most of the surface).

Depending on the nature of origin, they are divided into:

• organic;
• inorganic.

Simple mechanical couplings do not require complex actions, unlike when a chemical reaction occurs between a substance and a tissue. Moreover, the hitting of some of them can lead to irreversible consequences in the form of violation of integrity, the appearance of sprains, coarsening, etc.

All pollution, depending on the method of removal, can be classified as:

• Water soluble (dust, food and drinks, various water-based products). Their removal can be final or with settling inside the fabric (carbon black is such an example).
• Solvent-removable (fats and other oil-based products).
• Protein and similar, capable of oxidation and other reactions (blood, sweat, mold, rust).

Before you begin the removal process, you need to remember the following rules:

1. Any means, in order to avoid tissue destruction, should be tested on a small, less visible area. This is especially true for painted products.
2. In some spots, you first need to clean the top layer, preventing penetration deep into the fibers. If this happens, then all work is carried out from the wrong side, placing a clean white cloth under the thing.
3. With local cleaning, all solutions are applied with a swab, starting from the periphery to the center. Particular attention is paid to the edges so that there is no halo.
4. All movements should be soft, without pressing and stretching.
5. As you clean the tampons should be changed to clean.
6. All success depends on how much time has passed since the moment when dirt got on the product. Some substances on the surface are oxidized, in which case it will be difficult to get rid of them.
7. If you are not sure of the nature of the stain, do not use hot water and aggressive stain removers at once. Begin by soaking or washing in a cool soap solution. If this does not help, go to more cardinal solutions.

All detergents can be divided into three groups:

• for general pollution;
• with bleach;
• with additives (enzymes) as a stain remover.

According to the form of release they can be:

• in powder form;
• gel-like;
• liquid.

All of these tools can be universal or target specific materials (for example, delicate). If you can not get them, you should use time-tested home methods without losing time. For example:

• Stains from tea, cocoa or chocolate are washed in cold water, after which they are treated with an aqueous solution of ammonia (tablespoon per liter) or oxalic acid (half a teaspoon per glass).
• Spilled wine sprinkled with salt, shake and wash over with ammonia or other type of alcohol.
• Traces of milk are impregnated with warm glycerin or brown (teaspoon per liter).
• Fat stain sprinkled with talcum powder, chalk or salt, allowed to absorb. The remaining trace is washed with dishwashing detergent.
• Starch is repeatedly rubbed into iodine until it disappears.
• The ink is removed with alcohol or vinegar.
• Traces of sweat and other waste products are washed in a strong saline solution, pre-wetted with ammonia.
• Rust is removed with citric or acetic acid.
• Spots of plasticine, wax or cosmetics are wiped with oil and washed with soap.

Clothing pre-sorted:

• By color - divided into dark, light and color. With color and combined things you need to be extremely attentive. The first time they are washed in salted water. If the blouse is not faded, and the water is colored - it means that an extra dye has come out. In any case, such clothes should be washed separately.
• In composition. Usually on each product or packaging there is a label indicating the composition and characteristics of the washing mode. If not, you can use the tissue recognition tables by appearance and reaction to burning. Fabrics can be clean (cotton, linen, wool, silk) or mixed - with viscose, lavsan, nylon and other artificial fibers. Each fabric needs its own mode of care:
  1. Cotton and linen can even withstand boiling, they can be bleached and different detergents can be used;
  2. Silk (including artificial) and synthetic fabrics require neutral washing powders and regimes up to 45 degrees;
  3. Wool is washed only by liquid means or specifically designed for this purpose and in water with a temperature of 30-35 degrees. In addition, delicate fabrics (sweater or nylon tights) should not be twisted, compressed and rubbed. Brushes and other devices are applicable only to cotton fabrics.

• By sight - top (jackets) and wearable clothes (men's shirts, t-shirts, women's sweaters, underwear), even if they are the same in composition, should not be lumped together for hygienic reasons. For children's clothes only hypoallergenic drugs are used.
• According to the degree of pollution. Sometimes a sweater, blouse, dress or pants just needs to be refreshed to put it in the closet, without intensive procedures.

Any wash includes the following main steps:

• soaking (if necessary);
• cleansing hands;
• rinse (until the powder is completely removed from the fabric).

Shoes can be washed by hand only if it:

• made of textiles (sneakers, slippers, ballet flats, sneakers);
• with high-quality compounds (it is preferable that all seams be stitched, because the glue may diverge).

This process includes the following steps:

1. Inspection. Detected dirt and stains need to be cleaned, to sew up all the gaps, especially on the lining.
2. Take out the laces and insoles (they need to be washed separately).
3. Dissolve the powder or gel in warm water, soak shoes for no longer than 20-30 minutes.
4. Prepare a new solution and start cleaning. To do this, you can use special narrow brushes (or ordinary toothbrushes), which will provide access to the far inner corners. Do not compress the product and bend the sole.
5. Rinse in clean water, allow to drain.

Interior items get dirty no less than clothes, and are washed much less frequently, since this is fraught with certain difficulties. Firstly, not everything can be loaded into the machine. If the weight of the blanket exceeds the allowable - it can break. Secondly, the filler of pillows and blankets at high speeds can get off. So that the pile of rugs or rugs remains fluffy, Handle it carefully.

As a rule, there are difficulties with the fact that such things absorb a lot of water and become heavy. Therefore, you need to calculate your strength in advance to bring the matter to the end. An alternative method of washing voluminous things for people who are contraindicated exercise, is stamping their feet.

Preferably liquid means, they better penetrate deep into and subsequently washed out. Properly selected air conditioners help preserve softness and form.

Baby soft toys wash only liquid natural productsso that the child does not have skin reactions.

A few tips and recommendations for the hostess note:

• Before any washing the product is shaken out, cleaned with a brush from dust, remove stains. In addition, all damages (burns, holes, open thread) should be repaired, as they may increase after washing. All decorative trim must be removed, fasteners fastened and wrapped with cloth.
• Ideal for drying any products - outdoor fresh air. Of course, such conditions are not available to everyone, but the ventilation in the room should be good - this stage will end faster, and the volume of dense things will not have an unpleasant smell. Using cabinets and other devices for drying, make sure that the temperature conditions match.
• Wool and other stretchable fabrics are dried in a horizontal position. Products with a nap before drying shake and exclude clothespins, which can leave dents.

• After washing, the shoes are thoroughly wiped, stuffed with paper or rags, which are periodically changed until completely dry.
• Things do not necessarily squeeze, they can be spread on a towel and rolled into a roller. This method is suitable for heavily creased tissues, with nap and bulk.
• If the thing has sat down and stretched, it can be reanimated. For shrinking use washing in more hot water, the use of hydrogen peroxide or ironing in the wet state with a hot iron. To stretch, you can soak in salt water for several hours, and then apply a physical effect - use your hands or other devices to give things the desired position and dry them.
• Lost color thing can be revived by washing in a weak solution of vinegar.

To learn how to wash things by hand, see the following video.