Twill: description, composition, advantages and disadvantages

Universal twill fabric, consisting of mixed fibers, is often confused with pure wool tweed. It is all about consonant names, since the composition of these two fabrics is completely different. Reliable sources on the origin of the Twill are not available. According to Edward VIII in his author’s book Remembering Windsor, in 1830 a twill fabric from Scotland was sent to the London merchant, denoting it Tweels. By negligence, the Englishman confused the name with Tweed, and for a long time the material was successfully sold under this brand.

Because of this oversight, many people far from sewing and materials science confuse tweed with tweed. However, this fabric is not made of wool, but by mixing several types of fibers with a twill diagonal weave. On the product label is usually indicated the full composition of matter.

During its existence, the fabric has undergone many experiments concerning the raw materials used and production methods. Originally, for the production of twill, coarse and thick threads were used especially in gray-brown dark tones. In terms of composition, it was 100% sheep wool, woven in such a way that attracted the attention of a special texture - herringbone or the so-called crow's feet.

With the development of technology, the wool thread was joined with silk and cotton fibers. This greatly expanded the range of production of twill items. Now the material was used not only for tailoring classic business attire for business people, but also for stylish coats, handbags, flashy evening dresses.

The composition of modern twill is a mixture of several types of fibers. The basis may be threads of synthetic, cotton or wool and silk. Depending on their ratio, combination and properties, the material is divided into separate categories.

For example, if the material consists of 65% polyester and 35% cotton, it is commonly called polysatin. The combined fibers provide a beautiful fabric with practical characteristics.

Twill distinguishes visual gloss and special twill weave with a characteristic fabric texture - a diagonal scar. Sometimes knotted fibers are used to create the canvas, giving the finished material a special decorative effect.

The manufacturer takes the twisted natural fibers as a basis, adding to them synthetic materials in different percentages:

• cotton in half with polyester;
• 65% polyester to 35% cotton and vice versa;
• 75% wool to 25% cotton;
• 65% wool for 30% viscose plus 5% acrylic;
• wool 75% and 25% silk;
• 3% lurex to 97% pure wool and so on.

The addition of acrylic and polyester increases the strength of the fabric and reduces its weight, giving elasticity and preventing shrinkage.

Diagonal weaving of threads, or the so-called twill, with a weft to base ratio is equivalent to two to two. The thread of the base, overlapping two transverse threads, moves in one direction, creating a decorative scar on the surface. Repetition of the main overlaps creates asymmetrical rapport. The harder it is, the lower the density and the higher the diagonal rib. The thickness and density of the finished matter, its main characteristics depend on the combination of threads.

By production various dyes are used. They fit well on fabric and do not grow dull with time. This is a very important indicator for finished products of any purpose. The most commonly used dyed paint.

Twill shows a number of remarkable properties, the severity of which determines the number and type of fibers in its composition.

Textiles with unequal thickness and density, with a smooth or textured surface are produced most often from natural cotton fibers. Synthetic fibers such as elastane and polyester are added to improve practical performance. In the finished matter, their percentage may vary. The characteristics of the finished fabric depend on this: lightness or density, elasticity or rigidity, wrinkling or softness, multicolor or monotony, smoothness or hairiness, susceptibility to delicate washing or dry cleaning.

In appearance, the twill resembles twill or satin due to the similarity of weaving. In the production of twill, untwisted yarns of differently colored fibers are used. The practical use of the material is determined by the thickness of the threads.

If the twill is treated with a water-repellent compound on the front or back side, you can add new properties to the fabric. The waterproof type of a twill is often used for tailoring of overalls and a military uniform.

The fabric demonstrates undeniable advantages in any composition and therefore is ubiquitous in clothing and household items. Twill has many positive qualities.

• Durability and wear resistance, standing out favorably in comparison with satin or twill.
• Moderate density.
• Softness. Tactile sensations from touching the matter are pleasant, and the products themselves are comfortable to wear.
• Easy draping.
• Good breathability. This quality is important for bedding and wearable things.

• Dustproof. All dirt remains on the front side.
• Not susceptible to deformation, crease, stretching and shrinkage.
• Resistant to sunlight. Twill things do not fade.
• Ability to dry quickly. On the fabric does not start the fungus and the mole.
• Simple care (easy washing, drying, ironing and storage). The greatest simplicity noted in cotton-type fabric.
• Twill things look attractive and neat.

Judging by the majority of reviews and quality indicators, twill has very few minuses. It is worth noting that:

• synthetics in the composition of the fabric may be contraindicated in allergies;
• The cost of cotton-type fabric is high with its insufficient elasticity.

The rest of the twill is not inferior to other quality fabrics, and in many ways even surpasses them.

Due to the fact that in the production of twill, not only cotton, but also artificial fibers are used, as a result, several types of fabric are obtained. Each of them has its own properties and application.

• Silk twill goes for tailoring expensive and quality clothes. To improve the practical characteristics of the composition add elastane in a 3% ratio. Compared with satin for twill, more silk is needed, because of this, its cost price and selling price are higher.
• Elastic twill produced with the addition of 20% viscose with 80% polyester. Stretching properties can significantly expand the range of application of the material. He has proven himself in panty clothes: dresses, sweaters and the like.
• Twill-cotton - very strong matter with a low content of elastane. The range of application is extensive and diverse.

• Twill Twill - excellent lining matter. Not wrinkled, draped, not electrified. Keeps brightness and a form throughout the long period socks.
• Wool twill look distinguishes lightness and subtlety with excellent warming and breathing properties. Used for warm blouses, suits and dresses. Actual in the autumn-winter season. Private seamstresses often sew blankets from this fabric, taking advantage of the fact that it looks attractive, does not wrinkle, and maintains its presentation for a long time.

A typical 1/3 twill consists of cotton and 2/3 polyester. The best quality is noted at a twill in which in equal quantity polyester and cotton fibers contain.

Cotton twill-satin, elite silk (5% elastane), wool (such as tweed) and blended, which is currently available in a wide range, are found on sale.

The most popular types of this unique fabric are worth considering in more detail.

Modern twill-satin is rapidly gaining popularity. When it is created, cotton and satin are used in a specific ratio in percent and in a symmetric weave. The resulting material is distinguished by a lower density compared to ordinary satin with the preservation of external qualities, in which "by eye" the differences are not determined. The silky smoothness of the surface has a certain brilliance, which attracts the attention of buyers to it. The main advantage of twill-satin is the slight ability to wrinkle.

The material has excellent hygienic qualities, while it is durable even with very intensive use. Manufacturers appreciate twill-satin for durability of colors. The same quality is noted by economical hostesses. You can wash things without fear that the picture will fade or rub off. Matter easily withstands hundreds of wash cycles, while preserving the richness of colors and attractive appearance.

Silk twill-stretch consists of 98% cotton and 2% elastane. As a percentage, a deviation of up to three units in the direction of one or another fiber may be allowed. The addition of a small amount of elastane gives the property to stretch and not wrinkle. This kind of twill is widely used in light industry.

Silk with weaving threads diagonally is dense and “heavy”. Such weaving requires more silk fibers. Because Twill is always more expensive than satin. The material gives the product the ability to keep well shape. The fabric does not slip and is very pleasant to the touch. It was not for nothing that the creators of the elite brand Hermes noticed it for the creation of their famous shawls.

Blended type twill, combining cotton (30-97%) and synthetics (most often polyester). Cloth of mixed fibers used for sewing clothing, uniforms and suits. Such matter perfectly passes air through itself, allowing the skin to breathe, and high density gives clothes a dust-proof.

Initially, the material of diagonal weaving was made exclusively from sheep's wool, without impurities. Coarse and dense threads of dark colors created a heavy, dense, moisture-resistant canvas with an unusual pattern. Clothes for civil servants and businessmen, city dandies and representatives of the bohemian environment were removed from this matter. Innovations have changed the technology and touched the fabric. Cotton or silk began to be woven into a woolen thread, which made it possible to sew from the material both classic suits and headdresses, handbags, handkerchiefs and other accessories.

Innovative blended fabric noticed fashion designers to create stylish collections and clothing of the original cut. With success, the twill moved to the furniture industry, becoming a widespread participant in the creation of interiors.Furniture upholstery, curtains, chair covers, tablecloths, napkins - this is only part of what can be sewn from twill varieties. In addition to linen, home textiles and clothing, it can be found in the items of outerwear. A more subtle type of twill is used in the production of summer dresses, all kinds of women's, men's suits.

The most popular direction for the use of fabric twill - sewing bed linen. It was able to appreciate and love consumers around the world. It is all about its low crushability and fast drying, preservation of brightness after washing and resistance of the fabric to high temperatures when ironing.

High-quality paint twill pleases the consumer with a long color fastness of the product. And this characteristic is important for corporate uniforms, uniform and specialized clothing. In this case, the twill meets the following requirements that apply to working clothes:

• hygienic;
• breathable;
• hygroscopic;
• dust-proof;
• comfortable;
• durable.

In addition, the twill workwear, with its obvious practicality, added aesthetics and harmony to working clothes.

In general, the material is universal and finds the most extensive use, depending on the needs of the cutter or customer.

There is a sure way to distinguish this light and pleasant tactile material with a low pile from other fabrics. We need to look at it from a certain angle. The diagonal pattern of the texture is noticeable very well.

A tactile and visual distinguish twill from classic satin difficult. The fabric has a gloss and gloss inherent in satin, but the twin analogue costs much less.

On the example of a membrane, it is possible to compare the degree of air permeability and twill vapor removal. The membrane is a film with the smallest pores, with a diameter less than a water droplet, but exceeding the molecule of water vapor. Therefore, the fluid will not be able to leak through the matter inside, but the evaporation from the body freely penetrate out due to different partial pressure from the outer and back of the fabric surface. Only when a person begins to sweat, the membrane begins to "actively breathe" - to remove evaporation.

Most often, twill is produced in one-colored form, but sometimes a pattern is applied on it, mainly camouflage.

When purchasing a twill, it is important to pay close attention to what is indicated in the composition. As in modern types of fabrics it varies considerably.

If you compare the twill with poplin, polycotton and others, there will be no difference in the characteristics. The fabric is light, does not shrink after washing, almost does not wrinkle, rarely requires ironing, retains the colorful color shades. Like satin, the material can be washed in an automatic washing machine. After washing, the twill remains pleasant to the body and silky.

Although twill is easy to operate, there are certain care guidelines that should be followed. Then the products will last for a long time without spoiling.

• Washing twill-satin is carried out even at high temperatures using any detergent.
• Other types of mixed fabric, washed at t not more than 40 degrees. Whitening is not allowed. Do not use detergents with an "aggressive" composition.
• It is advisable to add a conditioner to soften the linen, prolonging the life of the fabric and preserving its structure and color.
• Do not dry mixed twill in the sun.
• Ironing things preferably wet.

In case of any doubts, it is easier to act as indicated on the label attached to the product by the manufacturer. Only then will the thing benefit and last for a long time, bringing tactile and aesthetic pleasure.

About twill bedding, see the following video.