Glycolic peeling: features and subtleties of use

Nowadays, the cosmetic market is full of masks, lotions, all kinds of tonic and acid peels. The great popularity of the care products is due to their ability to rejuvenate the skin, eliminate scars and reduce the severity of age spots.

Glycolic acid peeling is one of the varieties of chemical cosmetic peeling. It is carried out with the help of special glycolic acid, which is obtained from grapes, unripe beets and sugar cane. By the way, references to the use of the latter for anti-aging procedures are attributed to the times of Ancient Egypt.

Since then, science has made great strides forward, and in the 70s of the last century, scientists found a scientific basis for the effectiveness of fruit acids. It has been proven that they actively act on the cornified upper layers of the dermis, reduce the connections between dead cells and stimulate the production of collagen.

The glycolic acid concentrate was first tested on humans in 1996, when more than 40 people with various cosmetic problems took part in the testing. A month later, in 90% of the subjects, a significant improvement in the skin condition, a decrease in the stratum corneum, a reduction in the number of shallow wrinkles, and an improvement in the complexion were noted. This is what led to the widespread distribution of glycolic acid in the beauty industry.

The procedure has the most beneficial effects on the skin:

• Rejuvenates - due to the penetration of acid deep into the skin, an intensive production of collagen begins, as well as fibroblasts responsible for the elasticity of tissues. The result of these processes is an increase in skin turgor, smoothing of the relief, as well as reducing the depth and number of fine wrinkles.
• Cleans - glycolic acid in comparison with other fruit components has a rather low molecular weight, so it penetrates much deeper and effectively fights with dead cells in the most different layers of the epidermis.
• Shows the effect of lifting, that is, simply tightens the skin. The essence of this phenomenon is due to the fact that when the acid comes into contact with the extracellular space, the cells swell, the result is an increase in the elasticity of soft tissues, evenness and tightness of the flooded face contour.

• Eliminates inflammation - glycolic acid is widely used to effectively combat acne and ugly acne. The impact of the active component significantly reduces inflammation and reduces the appearance of foci of infection on the skin of the face.
• Moisturizes - after the procedure of chemical fruit peeling, the skin becomes more hydrated, the acid-base balance is normalized, the sebaceous glands function is enhanced, and all metabolic processes in the skin are optimized.

The benefits of fruit acid based peels are obvious:

• the patient has almost no pain during the procedure;
• wrinkles are smoothed out very quickly;
• the first results are already visible after a few hours;
• The recovery period is rather short.

However, we must not forget that the ideal cosmetic procedure has not yet been created, and glycolic peeling, like many other cosmetic procedures, is no exception.

The disadvantages of this cleaning include:

• the likelihood of complications (peeling, redness, puffiness);
• lack of results in individual cases;
• high cost of salon procedures.

Fruit acid peels can be superficial. median and deep. For each of them, a different concentration of glycol preparations is used - from 5 to 70%.

Surface treatment allows you to get rid of the stratum corneum. The same method is optimal if it is necessary to prevent acne and acne. This procedure makes the skin more tender, removes freckles and age spots, and in addition, smoothes wrinkles.

Median peeling affects the layers located more deeply, in some cases even penetrates into the tissue near the basement membrane. At the same time, fruit acid almost completely affects the epidermis, thereby achieving the effect of smoothing wrinkles, scars and scars are eliminated, and skin wrinkles are minimized.

Deep peeling is the most aggressive type of impact, but at the same time the most effective. In this case, fruit acid (its concentration reaches 70%) reaches the reticular skin layer, due to which its active recovery processes are launched. A similar procedure is used to combat deep wrinkles and folds, helps to reduce pigmentation and smooth out large scars. From a medical point of view, such peeling is comparable to surgery, which is carried out with mandatory anesthesia (local or general).

The recovery period of the skin after deep glycolic peeling is at least 20 days, and sometimes up to 1.5 months.

Cosmetologists advise to refer to the glycol rejuvenation of the epidermis in the following situations:

• active aging of the skin;
• the appearance of fine wrinkles;
• the presence of scars and scars remaining after acne;
• dry and peeling of the skin;
• the formation of stretch marks, which often occur after pregnancy, as well as due to severe weight loss;
• excessive greasiness of the skin;
• pigment-type neoplasms;
• flabbiness and reduced skin elasticity.

Glycolic peeling is a very serious procedure, regardless of the solution which concentration is used. Even a minimal violation of the technology of conducting, as well as incorrect skin care during the recovery period, often harm the skin and, instead of the expected effect, lead to additional problems.

Peeling, especially chemical, has a number of contraindications, among them:

• inflammatory processes in the treated area of ​​the skin;
• allergy to the active ingredient of the drug;
• herpes in the acute stage;
• fresh tan (usually reddish);
• the presence of warts in large quantities;
• purulent inflammation on the surface of the skin.

Peeling is not recommended for some diseases:

• oncology;
• diabetes;
• fever, fever;
• diseases of the cardiovascular system;
• asthma.

Glycolic peels should not be peeled by pregnant or lactating women, or by persons with individual intolerance to the compound.

The procedure of glycolic peeling includes two main stages - preparation and peeling directly. The sequence of actions and their time must be strictly observed, even the minimum excess or, on the contrary, reduction of the duration of exposure is not allowed.

The peeling of the skin using glycolic acid is carried out in a strict sequence of manipulations. Deviation from the rules of procedure is categorically unacceptable.

Glycolic peeling must be preceded by preparation, which begins 10 days before the procedure and consists in the gradual introduction of fruit acid in the form of low-grade fruit acid to the means of treatment - not more than 5%. In addition, you should use cosmetics, the pH of which is in the range of 3-5%, which will align the acid-base balance of the skin, soften its upper layer and prepare for further powerful effects of the chemical component.

For different types of skin, glycolic peeling preparation schemes vary:

• if the skin is oily, then within one week you should apply cosmetics with additives 1 time per day, and from 7 to 10 a little increase the number of effects to two in the morning and evening;
• for normal skin, apply twice a day; however, if the skin begins to peel off, then the number of procedures should be reduced to one;
• in case of dry skin of the face, the preparation is applied once a day throughout the entire stage of preparation for dry cleaning.

2 days prior to the procedure, it is necessary to apply the main tool that is planned to be used for peeling on the arm at the bend of the elbow - if itching, burning or swelling develops, this can be considered a sign of an allergic reaction to the tool. In this case, the concentration of the active component during the treatment should be taken to a minimum or try other cleaning options, for example, milk peeling.

Directly peeling is performed in the following sequence:

1. First, the face is cleaned, the remnants of decorative cosmetics are removed, as well as traces of dust and dirt - lotions and gels are usually used for this.
2. Next, carry out skin degreasing. It is known that fat particles retain glycolic acid and do not let it go inside the epidermis, so if you don’t get rid of the fat, you don’t have to wait for any effect from the procedure. That is why, before the peeling, the cosmetologist rubs the skin with a special degreasing tonic, paying particular attention to all the orifices of the greasy streams.
3. Next, the beautician pours the active substance into a small container and distributes it with the help of cotton buds over the entire face. This must be done quickly so that the composition penetrates into the deep layers as evenly as possible. So that the patient does not experience pain during deep and middle peeling, a stream of cold air is sent to her face, which alleviates her condition.
4. After a few minutes, the acid composition is neutralized. Most often used for this saline. Its use stops the action of the acid and brings the pH to a normal value, the disappearance of discomfort and burning sensation.
5. A special soothing mask is applied to the face, and then a nourishing cream.

Some women do glycolic peels on their own at home.Professional cosmetologists are categorically against self-manipulation of acidic solutions, but the desire of a woman to become more beautiful, having spent the least amount of money, makes many people ignore such advice.

In this case, you should know how to properly lead a glycol rejuvenation at home without harming your health and appearance.

Act in accordance with the following instructions:

• traces of cosmetics are removed, and cleansed skin is covered with lotion;
• with a cotton swab, gently apply the drug with the minimum concentration of fruit acid;
• 5 minutes later, again take a cotton swab, treat with a neutralizer and wash off the glycolic composition:
• wash with cool water;
• apply a softening cream.

During the recovery period, the skin requires special care for 7-40 days, depending on the depth of penetration of glycolic acid.

During the first week you should limit your stay in the sun, however, if the need to go outside is still present, you must use sunscreen without fail, even if the peeling was done in winter. Otherwise, the likelihood of pigmentation is high.

Within 10 days you should not go to the sauna or bath, it is also better to refuse to go to the solarium.

For at least 7 days, you should forget about decorative cosmetics, and use only those preparations prescribed by a cosmetologist as a care item, since they, as a rule, have an increased regenerating ability and stimulate more active renewal of skin cells.

It is not necessary to play sports during this period, since high activity causes an increase in body temperature and blood rush to the skin, including the face.

Very important: at the stage of healing of the skin, the skin is renewed, and this process is accompanied by a strong peeling. In this case, the dead tissue is separated and hang down, forming small crusts. Rip them off is not under any circumstances. The maximum that can be done is to carefully cut them with nail scissors.

When working with any chemicals in the cosmetic industry, it is extremely important to use the products of reliable manufacturers, the quality of which preparations do not cause any doubts. We give a brief overview of the most popular tools.

New Line is a Russian peel created by Kora.

The assortment list includes several variants of preparations containing glycolic acid.

• Crimson peeling is used for problem skin prone to acne. Under the action of the drug between the dead skin cells, communication is weakened, which leads to the exfoliation of the dead layer and the launch of regenerating processes that stimulate the active appearance of new cells. The content of glycolic acid in this peeling is 26%; the pH is 2.3.
• Cranberry peeling is used to combat age-related changes in the skin, including photo-aging and hyperkeratosis. The concentration of the active component is 40%, the pH is 2.3. Peeling is used for medium and deep cleaning only under the supervision of a cosmetologist.
• Lingonberry peeling is recommended to apply for effective rejuvenation on dry skin of the face. This drug can be used at any time of the year, but in the summer its use must be accompanied by the use of sunscreen during the recovery phase.

Glycolicpeel Whitening is another Russian brand that produces peels, which are commonly used to slow down the aging process, rejuvenate and improve skin condition, prone to excessive pigmentation.

The Spanish brand NEOpeel has also created an excellent series of products for aggressive peeling based on fruit acids. Depending on the type of product, the concentration of glycolic acid in it can range from 20 to 70%, and the pH varies in the range of 1.5-3.3.

Glycilic Cosmetics is optimal for effectively combating the aging process, it is most often applied on mature skin with obvious signs of age-related changes.

Allura Esthetics is a peeling that actively resists natural aging, and also eliminates hyperpigmentation, reduces the severity of scars and stretch marks. This drug fights well with any unaesthetic effects of acne and stimulates the synthesis of collagen fibers.

Tockani Cosmetics Premium is a glycolic acid based peel that not only effectively removes the upper layers of the skin, but also helps increase the production of elastin fibers.

Well proven drugs Belita, Caudalie and funds with chitosan.

Despite the fact that the use of glycol peels is considered a relatively safe procedure, as evidenced by reviews, in some situations, complications may occur. Let us dwell in more detail on the problems and negative consequences of cleaning and their causes.

Burn 1 or 2 degrees often occurs if the concentration of the drug chosen illiterate or if the duration of the procedure was too high. This causes a burning sensation and pain. It is necessary to immediately apply the neutralizer and wash your face with plenty of cool water, then apply the anti-burn agent and wait for the full recovery.

Pigmentation can be the result of violations of the rules established for the recovery period - exposure to the sun, visiting pools and saunas, as well as a solarium, incorrectly chosen care products. The occurrence of such an unaesthetic effect is easier to prevent; it is much more problematic to get rid of it.

A rash may be due to allergies to the main component of the drug. That is why it is very important to test on the skin before starting the procedures. In any case, when irritation appears, you should contact a specialist, but if the reaction to the peeling is accompanied by swelling and difficulty breathing, you should immediately call an ambulance.

Excessive dryness is a common consequence. In this case, it makes sense to visit a cosmetologist who will prescribe more effective moisturizing care products.

How the glycol peeling procedure is carried out, see the next video.