Chemical hair straightening: features and tools for the procedure
Today there are a lot of hairdressing procedures that allow you to change the appearance of the hair not only with the help of a haircut, but also to curl or, on the contrary, straighten the curls. The list of services due to which you can temporarily change the structure of the hair shaft, making it straight and smooth, should include chemical straightening. To achieve a similar result can be in the salon and at home, resorting to the use of specialized formulations.
What it is?
Modern hairdressing service, which has the name of chemical or permanent straightening, allows you to change the structure of the hair shaft. As a result of exposure to specialized formulations, you can even make curls even after a perm, or you can turn hair, curled by nature, into smooth strands. Translated from the Latin word "permanent" means "permanent." Based on the name, it can be understood that the result of straightening will be permanent. This is due to the presence of chemicals that destroy the disulfide bonds inside the hair shaft. The reaction occurs with natural keratin, which is the main component of the hair.
The compositions used in the process of chemical straightening have the most gentle effect on the curls, and the natural components provide the strands with shine, smoothness and well-groomed appearance, resembling the result after salon styling. Since the procedure provides a long-lasting effect, in the course of natural hair regrowth, you will need to correct the root zone., especially if the work was carried out with strands naturally curly. Chemistry of the last generation does not deform the protein compounds in the hairs, but affects only disulfide bridges. And the destruction of cystine and its derivatives is compensated by the protein complexes of another type, which provide elasticity to the locks.
It is cysteine and its derivatives, which disappear from the structure of the hair shafts, no longer allow the hairs to curl. However, only a well-chosen composition for fixing with permanent straightening can have a minimal negative effect on curls.
Straightening gives the following results:
- hair will be straight for a long period;
- hair rods will gain extra shine and smoothness;
- to some extent, you can remove the hooked ends.
For chemical straightening, in addition to the desire of the client, there are indications such as:
- it is recommended to use the service when curly and damaged curls are too much;
- most often it is possible to remove traces from a perm;
- Permanent straightening is indicated for haircuts that require daily styling in order to give the strands an even appearance.
Contraindications for such manipulations with hair are the following:
- temporarily abandon contact of hair rods with chemicals should be in case of severely damaged and weakened curls;
- straightening is contraindicated in violation of metabolic processes in the body;
- Japanese straightening is not carried out before the summer season;
- the master refuses to work with bleached hair, during the removal of the pigment on which 9% or 12% oxidizers were used;
- straighten hair rods after highlighting or blonding can be no earlier than six months;
- contraindications to the procedure will be the presence of allergic reactions to any component present in the composition of the drugs used;
- temporarily contraindicated straightening in the period of childbearing and breastfeeding;
- diseases of the epidermis, abrasions and injuries are classified as contraindications;
- Permanent straightening cannot be done immediately after perm.
Among the distinctive features of this hairdressing service is to highlight such nuances as:
- hair can be straightened not only over the whole head, but also locally, by making only bangs or hair rods even in the root zone even; such opportunities are caused by the universality of permanent straightening;
- despite the slight aggressiveness of the fixatives used, the preparations used still cause certain damage to the structure and health of the hairs, in the light of which they will need special care;
- despite the duration of the effect of straightening, after a few months, there will still be a need to re-visit the wizard for the correction of regrown roots, which can spoil the appearance of the hairstyle;
- chemical straightening takes time; as a rule, the entire procedure on medium-length hair will last about 5–6 hours;
- hair after the procedure will maintain its smooth structure even under the condition of high humidity;
- to consolidate the result, it is necessary to refrain from washing the head for 3-4 days after straightening;
- such a procedure would be more correct to entrust the master, at home there is a risk of errors associated with incorrectly chosen compositions for fixation, which will cause serious harm to the hair.
Advantages and disadvantages
Any salon treatment with hair has its positive and negative sides. The advantages of chemical straightening include the following characteristics:
- in the process of working with hair rods, changes in them occur not only on the surface, but also inside the cuticle; due to the deep impact, with the correct proportions of the working composition, the curls will be much easier to comb and create different styling;
- after straightening, you can stop using irons and plettes for a long time;
- You can not worry about the appearance of styling, because the hair will remain straight in all weather conditions;
- As a rule, the correction will take at least 5–6 months, and this procedure will only affect regrown roots, so the hair along the entire length will not be exposed to chemistry.
The disadvantages of permanent straightening include such nuances as:
- this service in the conditions of a beauty salon will be distinguished by a high cost;
- used clamps contain hazardous components that can cause burns on too dense curly curls;
- after straightening, the hair will require specialized, sulfate-free grooming products.
Varieties of procedure
Permanent straightening can be classified according to the type of composition used. Today, manufacturers offer several product options.
- Clamps on the basis of sodium hydroxide. These substances belong to the group of aggressive substances, because alkali can corrode the structure of cortex. As a rule, such tools are used to work with curls after perm.
- Products based on guanidine hydroxide. They are distinguished by a moderate degree of aggressiveness; they are absent in alkali. Substances rather dry out the hair, so after using them you will need to regularly moisturize the curls.
- Ammonium thioglycolate compounds. These are modern straightening products that act on hair very quickly. Usually the master uses the tools from this series for strands that are distinguished by the minimal presence of curls.
- ISO-based release pins. These are substances of a new generation that do not contain acid or alkali. They allow you to make the hair smooth and get rid of split ends.
- Amounts containing ammonium sulphide and disulfide. Such clamps are recommended for weak hair and dyed hair. The result of their use will be a slight straightening effect, which has a minimum duration.
Straighteners
Among the most popular means for straightening hair, several options are worth noting.
- Goldwell. This is an elite class Japanese technology that stands out for its long lasting effect. After using products from this line, straightened hair will need correction no earlier than after 1 year. Clamps are additionally enriched with lye proteins, betaine, keratin, vitamins and essential oils. After straightening and simultaneous recovery, the curls can be painted or laminated.
- CHI Transformation. This is a popular system that also stands out with the content of additional natural ingredients. Among them, it is worth noting olive oil, aloe vera, extracts of various herbs and algae. Manufacturers of fixers are engaged in American companies. Preparations can work with discolored and damaged hair.
A feature of the technology is the use of clamping forceps at the end of the procedure.
- LakMe K-Straight Ionic. Fixers have a sparing effect, do not contain formaldehyde, therefore they can be used on any hair. The straightening of the hair shaft structure occurs due to penetration into the depth of a special ceramide lotion. The result is stored on the hair for about 3 months.
- Relaxer This composition is based on sodium hydroxide without ammonia. The manufacturer offers the craftsmen to work with hair three specialized series, which are recommended for different types of hair rods.
Execution technology
The straightening process consists of several successive steps.
- First, the master must assess the condition of the hair, on the basis of what to choose the most effective composition. After selecting the means, the skin on the head is smeared with petroleum jelly or other oily compound, which creates an additional protective film on the surface that can prevent a burn if inadvertently in contact with chemistry.
- Further, strands along the entire length are treated with an emollient. After that, the entire volume of hair is divided into strands on which the reagent is applied.
- After a quarter of an hour, the hair is washed and leveled using a special ceramic ironing. The result is fixed with a lock.
- The next step is to wash the curls in order to wash off the remnants of the fixative from the surface of the hair rods. After washing, a special regenerative preparation is applied to the hair to neutralize the alkali.
- At the final stage, the head is washed with shampoo and balsam.
Possible negative consequences
Despite the fact that modern products for straightening curly strands incorporate natural components, the chemical components still cause some damage to the hair. It lies in the fact that due to getting even hairs, they are destroyed. In order to return the curls to their original state, they will have to cut them, wait until the effect of straightening fully grows. After the strands become smooth, the hairstyle will noticeably decrease in volume. The impact of chemistry on the hair will require the use of specialized care products, which would entail the need for additional expenses.
Homemade hair straightening can cause serious damage to the hair shaft.In addition, with minimal experience with substances, it is possible to provoke a burn of the scalp.
Further hair care
Subsequent care for curls suggests compliance with the following recommendations:
- for 5 days after permanent straightening, it is necessary to refrain from washing the head, as well as using hairpins and rubber bands, which can cause creases on the hair rods; avoid high humidity and protect hair from precipitation;
- in the process of caring for straightened curls, you must use a brush with sparse and soft teeth;
- curls will need a nutritional mask that needs to be done at least 2 times a week, and for washing the hair it will be more correct to use baby shampoo;
- it is necessary to dry hair naturally - without using a hair dryer.
Reviews
The available responses of girls who have tried the salon procedure of chemical hair straightening on themselves have a positive direction. Clients note a significant external transformation of curls, so that any haircut becomes more accurate. As a rule, if you follow all recommendations regarding follow-up care, the result of straightening will be pleasing for 5 months.
Many women used the technique of local straightening on curly hair, when work was done only with bangs. As a result, the clients in the future completely eliminated the need for daily use of irons. At the same time, natural curly locks in the remaining mass of hair were retained, which had a positive effect on the appearance of the hairstyle.
About how the procedure of chemical hair straightening, see the following video.